Amit Biswas guides you through Bengali gastronomical delights
FROM THE cradle of civilization, man’s obsession with food is well known. Rightly so, without food, life’s dynamism is curved and ultimately a person falls dead. During primitive times, taking food was a simple affair of hunt, burn and eats. But, as civilization progressed, man’s gastronomic undertakings became more and more complex. So much so, that elaborate arrangements for simple feedings were invented. Depending on the financial affluence of a person, specific area or corner in a house is solely devoted for the purpose of cooking food. Dining table was introduced and etiquette around it evolved. Range of hi-tech gadgets, which helps in cooking, has made appearance in the market. Cooking too progressed with time and continuous experimentation to suit the taste bud of the consumer. Gradually cooking become a long drawn affair demanding dexterity and imagination.
Among Indians, Bengalis as a community have infinite corpulent fascination for food. Romance for food and experimentation with it has been a historical forte of the community. Food features as a prominent if not dominant topic of discussion in casual gatherings of the member of this community. It is a matter of pride and Bengalis prefers to display their culinary capabilities at the smallest of excuse. Under no circumstance, a Bengali will compromise with simple ‘dal, roti and shabji’ for lunch on a Sunday afternoon. At least, three to four-course meal if not more with an ambrosial delight of fish or meat (for non-vegetarian) has to be served on the dining table in order to bring the lunch to its ultimate and satisfying end.
Needless to say, as my name depicts, I belong to this community and am no different from others of my community as far as infatuation for food is concerned. Sunday afternoon lunch is the pinnacle of my family’s gastronomic quest. Decision on course to be cooked for Sunday afternoon lunch is taken well in advance during the weekdays and preparation for this culinary celebration is completed on Saturday evening. Biggest and freshest fish and vegetables available in the market are bought, no matter how much they cost. I have already mentioned that a Bengali do not compromise on food as long as the resources exists.
So far as food habits are concerned, variation at micro level is prevalent if we take a bird’s eye-view of the whole of Bengal (Bangladesh included). These variations are mainly confined to subtleties like taste, texture and style of preparation of a particular dish. For example, generally Bengalis hailing from Dhaka and its adjoining areas as well as those from Chittagong area like food relatively hot and sizzling, while those hailing from Syllhet, Comilla and West Bengal have more demure taste buds. But in the same breath, I would also like to say that this typecasting is not sacrosanct and taste differs from person to person.
Any Bengali meal can be divided into two parts – vegetarian and non-vegetarian. Both parts have to be represented in most meals. The vegetarian part is richer in the sense that many spices and condiments go into the preparation. Most non-vegetarian preparation requires more of onion and garlic. But again, here too, the rule is not binding and depends completely on the better sense of the cook. Fries are an essential part of any Bengali meal. The range of fries depends on the season and availability of vegetables in the market. Fried potato is a coveted side dish in any Bengali meal. A dollop of achaar (homemade pickle) is a savory. Little achaar is taken on the fingertip and is applied on the tongue; then the tongue is smacked with the palette in order to get the resounding taste.
Most Bengali prefers traditional dishes over modern recipes. Steamed hilsa wrapped in banana leaves laced with grinded mustard seed is a delicacy. Machher kalia and murrighonto are coveted items of Sunday afternoon lunch. Another popular dish that appeals to many Bengalis is colloquially known as shutkir bora. The dish is restricted to parts of eastern Bengal.
Among the vegetarian dishes, minced leaves of some plants fried in oil and known as shaak is commonly eaten. Stuffed broad beans fry is a delicacy. Shukto, a dish prepared with minimal of ingredients, is a starter delicacy. Paturi is a vegetarian dish that is commonly eaten in West Bengal. Other vegetarian delights include patal posto and jhinga posto. One can go on and on but what is important is that every preparation, vegetarian or non-vegetarian, requires nimble-fingered cooking hand with one objective and that is to appeal to the taste bud of the taster.
With the advent of television, computer and internet, Bengalis have learnt to be adventurous with food. Exotic modern recipes are now tried and perfected. The younger generations who are more computer savvy go all out to try new avenues in the field. Many a time by experimentation they try to turn a traditional dish into modern dish with spectacular outcome. Furthermore, it is the younger generation who are more progressive and do not hesitate to deftly use modern cooking gadgets. In many instances, it is by their effort that old and traditional time consuming methods have given way to modern more efficient way of cooking.
Another important part of Bengali culture is the religious offerings. During a religious function, Bengalis usually like to offer a five course meal known as pancha baenjon hhog to the deity. This offering is in addition to the normal offering of different types of fruits. Non-vegetarian dishes are avoided. But, here too there is exception. Shandhi puja, a part of Durga puja, requires non vegetarian dish specially courses made of fish as an offering. Offering made to Bhairav, an incarnation of Lord Shiva also requires dishes prepared out of fish. Hotchpotch and dalna, a concoction of mixed vegetable is prepared as an offering in mass religious function like Durga puja.
I have long been dealing with the food of Bengalis, but it will not be worthwhile if I do not mention a little about eating habits of a Bengali household.
For a Bengali, dining table is a place for relaxation. Etiquettes are brushed aside while eating. The whole exercise is conducted in a very congenial atmosphere. Discussions over family matter, plans for holiday, travels, etc. are made over meals. Many a time, serious political or sports arguments erupt over mouthfuls. Each and every morsel is swirled, chewed and tasted thoroughly with relish. Due credit is given where it deserves. But no Bengali will leave the dining table with food untouched over a flimsy argument.