By Benjamin Lyngdoh
For north-east India, Mawlynnong is a household name. At a wider national and international scope, it has a meaningful visibility. With World Tourism Day (27th September) fast approaching, one cannot but highlight this PEARL of tourism, Meghalaya. Indeed and at least in the context of north-east India, Mawlynnong is as rare and valuable as a pearl. However, this brings in itself the challenges of sustainability. Consequently, there are pressing questions; How far can it go? To what extent can it support livelihoods? What are the numerous issues limiting its tourism? Most importantly, how to mitigate and manage them? As such, this writing is an attempt to present issues of tourism in Mawlynnong through the lens of drama; all with the good intent of contributing towards its development. As in any drama there is a protagonist. Here, the protagonist is Pyrkhat Khuslai (a fictitious name for a real person responsible for the management of tourism operations at Mawlynnong). Critically, solutions are not provided here. Rather, solutions and answers are for all to delve upon and self assess. As such, the drama unfolds as follows –
Nestled in a remote pocket of East Khasi Hills district of Meghalaya and near the Indo-Bangladesh border, lies Mawlynnong village at a distance of around 80 kilometres from the capital city Shillong. It is a small and quiet hamlet with 102 households and a population of around 550 people. For the populace, community-based social capital is strong thereby propagating a vibrant and dynamic community cohesiveness. Against this backdrop of cooperation and cohesiveness, Mawlynnong has a shared belief on the appeals of beauty and artistic taste. The values of cleanliness and hygiene are a way of life and a natural practice. These are not confined to the household and ones premises alone, rather collectively to the entire village and across its geographical limits. As such, aesthetic sense is a commonsense at Mawlynnong. The floral plantations are a common sight at every household coupled with intricately cleaned street ways and footpaths. In terms of vocation and economic activities, the residents were primarily into agriculture and trading of their produce.
However, till the year 2003 marketing and selling of the products was a challenge due to the non-availability of a proper black-topped approach towards the village. This was at a distance of three kilometres. As such, till that time Mawlynnong was relatively isolated. The village was not visible, let alone being popular. Accordingly, there were no tourists visiting the place. Hence, the upholding of values like beauty, artistic presentations, cleanliness, hygiene and the sense of aesthetics is nothing but a normal way of life. None of these practices were executed and maintained with the thought of tourism and tourism-related revenue generation in mind. This presents as a DNA and the heart and soul of the village. Critically, the year 2003 was also a watershed moment. It was the year when Mawlynnong was declared as ‘Asia’s cleanest village’ by Discover India Magazine. Coinciding with the advent of a proper approach road towards the village a personality of the magazine visited the place and narrated extensively on the aesthetic practices and features aptly bestowing the prestigious title. Once the title was awarded, there was no turning back for Mawlynnong. It shot into stardom overnight. It became known and gained popularity in no time. It was the talk of the tourism clientele.
Accordingly, tourists started thronging the village. This initial interest from the tourist was further supplemented with print and electronic news and documentaries on the village. This only further catapulted publicity and marketing to a far wider clientele. In particular, the coverage by an international media like the British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) acted as a major fillip to the entire advertising of Mawlynnong. Amidst all this, there was joy at the village at the achievement of this unique distinction. In addition, it was coupled with gladness at the thoughts of the myriad tourism-related economic opportunities that would open up gradually. Importantly, the well wishers and tourism development agencies personnel advised the residents of Mawlynnong to be prepared for a flood of visitors. They were sensitized on the assured possibility that tourists from far and wide, both domestic and international will now make a serious foot-fall on their reputed village.
Gradually and since that landmark year of 2003, Mawlynnong has seen a steady and increased flow of tourists. These are a combination of local (Meghalaya only), domestic (Indians from other states) and international tourists. The inflow was to the tune of 200 to 250 tourists per day during the years 2004-2005. However, this changed drastically to the degree of 1200 to 1600 tourists daily depicting an increase of 500 per cent to 540 per cent currently. Clearly, the sudden rise in publicity and wide-spread visibility opened the floodgates and percolated into mass visitors at the village. In addition, on average around 300 to 400 small vehicles travel to and from Mawlynnong daily.
On the positive side, the sudden increase in the inflow of tourist shook the residents to prepare and provide for tourism-related products and services through tourism-related entrepreneurship. The residents engaged in businesses like bed and breakfast, home stays, resorts, cafes, restaurants, retail stores, souvenir outlets and so forth. These businesses are a vital source of income and sustenance of livelihoods for the residents. Importantly, out of the total number of households (102 numbers) around 40 per cent are dedicatedly engaged in tourism-related businesses. The majority of the remaining 60 per cent of the households have at least a member(s) engaged in one or the other tourism-related vocations like sweeping of the village footpaths and streets, waste collection and disposal, aesthetic improvements and so forth. Hence, the model of tourism practiced at Mawlynnong is community-based tourism. Further, the growth in tourism activity also led to the improvements in the basic infrastructure of the village. The economics of tourism increased the revenue and sources of funds thereby providing opportunities for maintenance, construction and development of footpaths, streets, roads, electricity, community halls and structures and so forth. Importantly, the upsurge in tourism and related activities called upon the community to behave in a professional, responsible and accountable manner.
In the midst of this rosy journey, dark clouds of concerns started to creep up in the recent two years. There are reported incidents of tourists going hungry during their tryst with Mawlynnong. The tourism-related businesses were incapable of meeting the food demands of the tourists. In addition, accommodation was becoming a serious challenge. In some instances, visitors who came with an intention of stay had to return back disappointed and peeved. The mass arrival of tourists into the village was putting undue pressure on the provision of products and services. Moreover, preserving and nurturing of the environment was becoming more and more of a problem. As such, Mawlynnong has exceeded its ‘carrying capacity’. However, this was not the end of the woes. Depressingly, there is a negative feedback from a group of tourists who recently visited. The food, accommodation, the range of tourism resources and attractions are being questioned. Time has caught up with Mawlynnong.
The morning of 15th July, 2017 was the ‘clarion call’. It was a decisive moment that would determine the future of Mawlynnong. Amidst an air of uncertainty, the villagers sat with Mr. Pyrkhat Khuslai discussing and dissecting the issues and the reasons thereof. Accordingly, solutions would creep up but to what degree are they tenable? There were definitely more questions than answers. Depressingly, these questions are a threat on the livelihood and sustenance of the residents. Vividly listening to the concerns, discussions, possible remedies and challenges and while clutching the feedback in his hand, Pyrkhat Khuslai sat confused and perplexed with questions on how to handle the issues. The pressing point is why has this situation arisen? Where did things go wrong and where to start with a remedy? In fact, to start with, the question itself is the remedy and most importantly, what may be the most favourable path forward.
Readers who have visited Mawlynnong many help provide answers!
(The Author teaches at NEHU)