The time is nineteenth century. The British presence is already felt in the North-eastern region of India. With Khasi and Jaintia Hills already under British administration, it is time to consolidate their rule in the Garo Hills. Preparations for this is already underway. Little do they know that one man is about to emerge as a hero for the Garo people.
Want to know who? Hop onto the time machine with Sunday Shillong and take a journey with us to December 12, 1872. What do you see? A village, perhaps? A sense of distrust as the presence of outsiders is felt? Here goes the story of a world where the old way of life meets the new – one where banana skin clash with the Slai, the Garo term for the rifle.
Born in Samanda near Williamnagar in East Garo Hills, Pa Togan grows up to be a warrior, destined to lead his people to counter the Rori (outsider).
Word in the village near Simsang River is that the white-skinned aliens have come to take away their freedom. Women on the banks of the river say, Rori rang sokbajok (Outsiders have reached). Elders of the village hold urgent meetings to discuss and devise a way to counter this new threat. Rumours are rife – that of a new kind of sword, out of which fire comes out. The belief is that it burns the human body. The whole village is instructed to be on guard.
Meanwhile,
The British authorities, better at planning, have an advantage. Thanks to technology and the power of the gun, they carefully strategise and send three groups of British troops. Captain Daly, the police officer in-charge of Cachar leads his men through Rewak; Captain WJ Williamson, the Deputy Commissioner of Tura moves from Tura; and Captain Davis, Deputy Commissioner of Goalpara advances through Bajengdoba.
Captain Daly is the first to arrive in the village ‘Matcha Rongkrek’, near Chisobibra. Tents are up and they wait for the right time to strike.
Back in the village,
The elders think of how to protect themselves. Young, able bodied, brave Garo warriors like Pa Gilsang Dalbot Sangma and Pa Gowal Nengminja Sangma are ready to lead the fight. In the midst of such heated discussion, one young man, Pa Togan Nengminja quietly listens to their conversation, all the while thinking of a way to safeguard the village.
Fellow time machine travelers, let us now step inside a traditional Garo house. As we explore, we see that most of the houses are made of wood and have thatched roofs. On the walls of the house, we see Garo swords or the Kari. Two young Garo men, Toja and Sanja enter this house and pull the swords out, unaware of our presence as we observe them.
Outside, the weather gets colder and the people of the village are out in the courtyard. Pa Togan hits upon an idea and tells them that banana trees will save the day. Since they’re full of water, it will cool down the fire, he says. Initially, people think he is not serious, stating how the British forces use a hollow sword and it has the sound of the Kimpreta (thunder). In order to make them see his point, Pa Togan takes a long stick, heats one end in the fire and shoots it towards a banana tree. Later, he pulls the stick out and shows them that the heated end has cooled down. The elders are impressed and decide to listen to our young hero. Banana trees are cut and a layer-by-layer boundary wall is built. Shields made from banana skin are also made and additionally, the men wear armour made of banana skin.
Its night and the British troops have retired for the day. Pa Togan and his men wait to launch their surprise attack.
Ka Chalang, Ka Sangma, Ka Marak – Battle cries in the air!
Pa Togan and the other warriors fill the air with enthusiastic war cries. We follow them as they chant Hai…hai…kai…kai…re’tokbo, challenging each other to bravely march on.
Noiselessly, they charge forward towards Chisobibra, observing any movement in the enemy camp. A guard notices them. Fearing that he will raise an alarm, they charge at him. Soon, there is chaos and in the wee hours of the morning, the two sides clash.
Banana skin is no match for the guns – a bullet narrowly misses Pa Gilsang; hurt, he falls to the ground. At this point, Pa Togan Nengminja charges forward and is hit in the chest. As he dies on the banks of the river, his blood is washed by the river and carried to the rest of the Garo Hills. Back in the village, the horn is played and the people know that one of their own is now a martyr.
In his last moments, he is re-born as the symbol of Garo resistance against the colonial masters.
Snap to 2020,
Now that we are back in the present, how do we feel? Do we sit back and think of a time when simplicity and innocence came head-to-head with the British policies? Or do we take a moment of silence to salute the bravery of Pa Togan Nengminza Sangma and his men?
As we celebrate his death anniversary on December 12th this year, let us remember our heroes of Meghalaya.
Adity Choudhury
(with inputs from Ms. Bharati Sangma, retd. Vice Principal of Lady Keane College. His story is written in the form of a one act play titled Pa Togan Nengminja Sangma by Llewellyn R. Marak)