SHILLONG, Jan 4: Come November and people from Shillong and its vicinity flock to Nongjrong to watch the enchanting dance of nature as the darkness lifts and the sun jostles its way in the horizon slowly rising and enveloping the skies in a lovely shade of pink before the sun makes its regal appearance. This ethereal sight from the Brah viewpoint is simply out of this world. There is also the fog rising from the Umngot river below which makes everything surreal.
Since 2018 after some media persons came and visited Nongjrong word had spread about this mesmerising phenomenon and visitors have been crowding to witness this mystical play of nature, leaving their homes at 2 am and reaching Nongjrong at about 4 am.
This phenomenon is better witnessed from November onwards when the sun rises at about 5.15-5.30 am. By December the sun rises at about 6 am. Visitors wait patiently for this enchanting sight. Visitors say the sight is so wondrous that it leaves them speechless. The only sound heard is that of sighs at the beauty of creation.
As the name suggests Nongjrong is situation on a hillock, hence the spectacular view. It is about 47 km from Shillong and is part of the Mawkynrew Block.
The Shillong Times spoke to the Sordar of Nongjrong, Pynshaiborlang Synjri who was elected to the post in 2013. Synjri was earlier working with Voluntary Health Association of Meghalaya posted at the Jatah PHC. Later he returned to the village with the idea of promoting livelihoods through tourism. The idea of promoting tourism was born during the Sordarship of Madrak Lyngdoh in 2005 but it took time to promote the village as the road condition was bad. In fact the road to Nongjrong via Dienglieng was constructed only in 2022.
Synjri says that the MNREGA scheme allows the Dorbar Shnong to plan and design their own projects. It was in 2018 that a meeting was called by the local MLA Banteidor Lyngdoh where the BDO of Mawkynrew, RL Tariang and other officers of different departments was held at Nongjrong and it was then that the idea to proactively promote tourism took shape.
The viewpoint at Brah was constructed under the MNREGA and steps leading further down the slope to a place where visitors camp for the night were also constructed. The place was then officially launched by the BDO as a tourist destination. But before tourism could pick up the pandemic put a temporary to all tourism-related activities. Under the leadership of the present Sordar, P Synjri, Nongjrong was awarded for the innovative idea of the Sunrise Viewpoint. Today Nongjrong has become a favourite destination for tourists from across the country and the globe.
Two youth leaders from the village, photographer Misonwell Rangtong and Pamela Ryntong are both engaged in supervising the viewpoint, the latter doing the collection of entry fees (Rs 30 per person) while the former promotes the viewpoint through extraordinary pictures of the sunrise over his social media posts. Misonwell has become a one-man army in terms of promoting Nongjrong as a tourist destination.
When asked if there is a community-led tourism promotion society, Misonwell says as of now there is no society but they are in the process of forming one. About tourists coming in at dawn and disturbing the villagers with the sound of vehicles and human movement, Misonwell says, “We get up very early anyway because our people have to fetch drinking water from long distances and also leave for their farms down in the valley early in the morning. Our villagers get up early to prepare food and have it before going to their farms. Also, tourism creates job opportunities for the village people who can sell tea and snacks. Earlier we were disturbed by the drone of vehicles but now we are getting used to the sounds.”
When asked as to what are the challenges of promoting tourism in this remote village, Misonwell says, “At present we lack the basic technical skills on utilising the local resources and also how to accommodate tourists who come early in the morning. Our problem is water scarcity and we still have to trudge miles to get drinking water. Besides, most of the villagers have not understood the larger meaning of tourism. They think people just come to see the sunrise and the rising fog and go away.”
According to Synjri what is urgently required in Nongjrong is a proper waste disposal system since tourists also generate a lot of non-biodegradable waste. There is need for signage to direct people to Nongjrong. But above all there is need for more toilet facilities as at present there are only 2-3 toilets. Better water facilities are also a priority and good roads and footpaths. Synjri adds, “Nongjrong now needs tourism infrastructure hence government should invest more on tourism that is aligned to natural activities. Besides, the local youth should be trained in tourism management through short term courses. Nongjrong is a farming village hence investment in improvement of agriculture and marketing is also a top priority.” He also cautioned against the sudden impact of tourism and how to mitigate the negative effects of tourism.
At present there is only one homestay facility but even that is not well developed. When this scribe visited Nongjrong on December 31, there were at least six visitors who had come from Guwahati in the evening with the idea of staying the night so they can wake up to the sunrise but were told there is no accommodation. Disappointment was writ large on their faces.
Clearly tourism promotion is a slow process and requires infrastructure to be in place before a place is promoted. But in Meghalaya it has always been a case of putting the cart before the horse. Yet tourism is the only livelihood potential in the state.
