By H.H. Mohrmen
Rice is not only a staple food for the people who live on the plateau of the Jaiñtia Hills but is also the most important food item connected to various aspects of the culture of the Pnar. In the past, in Jaiñtia Hills, the Wars who lived on the southern slopes of the hills primarily practiced jhum or slash-and-burn cultivation. However, the Pnar, who lived on the plateau, not only practiced but mastered wetland rice cultivation. This is evident from the beautiful rice terrace that they have skillfully made on the slopes of the hills and even in the valleys of different river basins.
Although farming practices in War Jaiñtia under Amlarem sub-division have changed and jhum cultivation has been replaced by mono cropping of arecanut or betel nut, the little rice cultivation that exists in the Amlarem area of War Jaiñtia also owes its origin to the Pnar who migrated there. The Pnar have a history of growing different types of rice, and rice plays a very important part in their lives, from being a staple food to being an essential component in religious ceremonies and rituals performed by the people, which we will discuss in subsequent articles. In this article we will only discuss the rich connection that it has with food. In fact, rice is used for many other purposes besides food and it is connected with many different aspects of the lives of people in the area.
U Syiem Sakhoo: The King of Crops
Food crops are not mere plants that feed people’s hunger; in the context of indigenous communities, there is always one crop central to their lives. Although all crops and plants are equally important, there is one crop considered the king of all crops. This special connection between people and crops indicates that food holds a spiritual essence in the lives of indigenous communities. Almost every indigenous group has certain crops that are unique or fundamental to their way of life.
Among the Pnar, rice fits into that category of a crop with which the community has a special connection. Apart from feeding people, it is used for different purposes. In fact, the lives of the Pnar community revolve around rice. The first lesson children are taught when they are young is not to waste rice. If bits of rice fall from a plate, children are instructed to collect the precious food. Unavoidable food waste is used as feed for domestic animals and sometimes as compost.
Among the Pnar, rice is considered the king of food and is also called u Syiem Sakho. Perhaps this is the only community that gives a crop the status of the king of crops. At one time, they grew more than a hundred varieties of rice in different parts of the twin districts. Khoo Soo or Khoo Wasoo used to be the most popular rice of the Pnar, and Khoo-Pnah or sticky rice is also one of the important rice varieties. The mere presence of such a large variety of rice indicates that the community has lived with this crop for thousands of years. Throughout the ages, they have collected the largest variety available and interestingly, Khoo Wasoo is only found in this area and that is also why sometimes it is also called Khoo Pnar or the rice of the Pnar. In England my host in their effort to make me feel at home, went to look for my favourite red rice at all the supermarkets but ended up with brown rice only. Whether Khoo Wasoo is endemic to the Pnar people only is an important case to study?
Another pertinent question arises: how did such a vast variety of rice come into the custody of the Pnar people? Where did this large variety originate? The hundred varieties of rice serve as historical records, proving that people have lived with the crop for thousands of years and have experimented with different varieties. The fact that the community has a rich agrarian culture also indicates that they have been practicing farming for a long time. Unfortunately, many of these rice varieties are dwindling, and several have been lost forever.
The importance of rice is seen in the fact that it is the only crop with three different names depending on its stage of use. U Kba in Pnar and Rhia in War refer to raw rice. When the husk is removed, it is called U Khoo or Rhia, and when cooked, it is called Ja in Pnar and Ji in War. Ja or Ji is the most important food for the people—it is eaten three times a day, and no meal is incomplete without it.
Types of Rice-Based Dishes
In Jaiñtia Hills, there are many types of Ja, such as Jalieh, Jakhoo, Jasoo, Jadoh/Jidoh/Ji-ah, Jachulia, Jakhonboo, Janam, Jasiang, Jasaktung, Jatungtap, and Jakre. Jasiang and Jasaktung have religious significance. Jasiang is cooked rice used as an offering to ancestors during the Ka Siang Ka Pha ceremony. Jasaktung is rice cooked with beans, specially prepared during the naming ceremony of a baby in the Mukhap area. Jadoh is rice boiled in chicken or pork broth and is the most popular dish served at feasts, whether a wedding or a picnic. Jakhonboo and Janam have cultural significance as well; the former is given to mothers after childbirth, while the latter is offered as a mark of respect and sympathy to families that have lost a loved one. Ja tungtap is rice mixed with fermented fish, Jachulia is sticky rice and Jakre is rice cooked with millet.
Rice-Based Snacks
The Jaiñtia people have also created different food items from rice. Most of their snacks are rice-based, indicating that they have been eating and experimenting with rice for a long time.
Some of the most popular rice-based snacks are Pumaloi/Tpu-langdong and Putharo/Tpu-wasein. The difference between them lies in how they are prepared. Tpu-langdong is made from coarsely ground rice powder and steamed, whereas Tpu-wasein is finely ground and baked on earthen pots called Ki Weñ. Other snacks include Tpupynche, made from rice powder mixed with jaggery and water, baked until almost burnt. Tpupynche is associated with a tradition where a man and a woman declare their marriage.
Other rice-based snacks include Tpu-ñawhali and Tpu-nai, both made from fine rice powder mixed with water, salt, and Nalieh (Perilla seeds). The difference is that Tpu-ñawhali is deep-fried and crunchy, whereas Tpu-nai is baked and soft. Tpusuwe or Tpusuwa, also called Tpu-Sutnga, is made from finely ground rice powder with sugar and steamed in leaves. Tpu-myngkruid in Pnar and Twewpuri in War is made by deep-frying rice powder mixed with jaggery. Tpurusi or Twew Rusi is a unique rice snack made by rolling rice powder and jaggery into balls, similar to a ladoo.
Other varieties include Tpujngiar, made from rice powder without any seasoning, and Tpupnah, made from sticky rice. Tpu Tadong is similar to Tpu Suwe but is cooked in a bamboo hollow and burned directly in the fire. Flattened rice, known as Shira/Khooner/Rhia Sniar, and Handoo, which is pounded and dried cooked rice, is popular in Jaiñtia only. Khooner and Handoo were once popular snacks for travelers and even fed Jaiñtia warriors during their battle against the British under the leadership of U Kiang Nangbah.
The Khasi also have learnt the art of making Putharo from the Jaiñtia because the pots that putharo is baked are called Weiñ and the two piece clay pots are made at Larnai only.
Rice-Based Beverages
Rice is also used in making traditional drinks. One of the common beverages among the Khasi Pnar is (rice beer), Yndem or Sadhiar the former is a crude rice beer and the latter is a much refined product. Another common drink amongst the Pnar and the War is Harak or kiad (distilled liquor), which are made from rice and even millet. Rice beer remained popular until the British introduced distillation techniques. In some cases, rice beer is still used today, especially in religious ceremonies or rituals. Making Harak is popular in the Tuber area, and it is made from rice. In certain villages under the Laskeiñ Development Block, Cha-khoo or rice tea made from fried rice is an important beverage.
This article explores the deep connection between rice and the food consumed by the people. In the next article, we will examine how deeply rice is interwoven with the culture and traditions of the community.