By Bhogtoram Mawroh
Although the e-bike sharing scheme has come under some criticism recently, I completely agree with the idea that Shillong should be made into a more walkable and cycle-friendly city. Guwahati is trying to solve its traffic problem by building new flyovers. But in the long run, the infrastructure will again become overwhelmed and it is not a sustainable solution. In the long run, moving away from four-wheelers has to be the solution not just to the traffic problem but also to a host of other issues, like pollution. Cycling, in fact, should be leveraged not just for improved transportation within the city but also as a means to attract a certain kind of tourism, which would be immersive and ultimately more sustainable for the state.
Meghalaya is a plateau and, contrary to public perception or the official narrative, does not belong to the Himalayan region. It is actually part of the Deccan Plateau, which is still part of the ancient landmass of Gondwana and has some of the oldest rocks in the world—more than 500 million years old—going back to the early beginnings of life on the planet. Since it is a plateau, it is not as hilly as the other states in the region. This makes the state an ideal location for long-distance cycling—rides that are more than 100 km with an elevation gain of 2,000 metres a day. The surrounding environs of Shillong, in fact, have many locations within a radius of 100 km that can be reached by cycle, and they make some of the most fun rides around.
There are two climbs out of the city—one from the Umshyrpih Bridge to ML05 Café and the other from Fire Brigade to Ksehbilat. Both are ascents of almost 7 km with an elevation gain of 500 metres or more, challenging for amateurs like me but a breeze for professionals. Once you reach ML05 Café and Ksehbilat, there are multiple routes that one can take.
From Ksehbilat, one can turn right and take the Pomlakrai road, which ends at Laitylyngkot. The road is very good and the landscape is breathtaking, especially during the rainy season. Hills covered in a carpet of fresh green, dotted with patches of forest, and a bridge over a clear stream are some of the highlights of this route.
From Laitylyngkot, there are again a few options. One can continue on the road to Pynursla, which I will not suggest at this time because of the ongoing construction. Another route from Laitylyngkot, which I usually take, is the one to Laitlum, which brings one to a hidden valley (there are in fact many such hidden valleys, with the most spectacular one located between Sohiong and Mawngap, a route I often take). From the junction that leads to Laitlum, one can take the main road and ride back to Shillong. All of this can be done within a few hours. For those who are more adventurous, they can continue riding until they reach the junction after Jongksha, where a road diverges to Nongjrong. It’s a descent of almost 600 metres which reveals some spectacular landscapes—a treeless grassland giving way to rich tropical forest alongside mesmerizing rice terraces and orchard-covered slopes. If one is lucky, they will find scores of pumpkins lying on the side of the road ready to be transported to the market.
At the bottom there are again two options: either continue until Umngot or climb to Nongjrong. I tried reaching the bridge on the Umngot but couldn’t do so because my tire got punctured. By the time I fixed it, it was getting late and I had to return to Shillong. I did climb to Nongjrong, though, and stood on top of the viewpoint with my cycle, overlooking the valley where clouds come to rest in the morning. It was a most beautiful sight.
There are many other routes around the area that can be taken. Syntung is not very far, but for those who cannot ride more than 100 km a day they may have to spend the night. For stronger riders, Jowai is a good option, which is within 150 km. It took me more than 10 hours of riding and I was completely destroyed in the end. The return journey is especially grueling—over 50 km of deceptively difficult climbs that take a heavy toll. One trip I hope to make in the future is to ride to Nartiang (an important site in Khasi history in the Jaintia Hills) and return through Mawlasnai. That would be just as challenging. Sutnga, the birthplace of Hima Sutnga—an important Khasi Hima that later became Hima Jaintiapur—is another ride I hope to do one day, especially since new roads are being built that will make the journey easier. In fact, there are many important sites related to Khasi history in the Jaintia Hills that I would like to explore someday.
For those who want to stick to 100 km, there are many options from ML05 Café. One can continue on the road to Sohra; although it is around 120 km, the ride is not very difficult. From Mawjrong, one can also take the road to Kongthong. Another option is to skip the ride to Sohra and take the road to Baniun instead. From there, one can either take the road to Mawphlang, from where roads diverge towards Mawsynram and Sohiong, or continue along the Mairang–Nongstoin road.
Riding to Mawsynram is an adventure because of the dismal road condition. This is where an MTB becomes the cycle of choice. The view of the deep gorges is absolutely stunning and rivals the one from Mawkdok Bridge. During the rainy season, multiple waterfalls appear on the side of the road where one can wash up. But maybe the most magical moment is when clouds drift from the valley and settle on the landscape like a white blanket.
The most challenging ride, however, is the one to Mairang. There are more than half a dozen climbs which have to be negotiated to reach the town. From there one can continue to Kynshi or take a diversion to Kyllang. The road to the latter is in bad shape and, if the way is not known, one can easily get lost. To reach Kynshi, one just has to follow the main road, crossing a series of ponds where the prize money for the fishing competitions exceeds 10 lakhs. Stronger riders can also go all the way to Markham, a well-known tourist destination. The return journey, however, is absolutely brutal, with several tough climbs, the most difficult being the one at Traw. More than the distance, it’s the gradient that is challenging—more than 5 degrees for a long stretch. But the pain and fatigue are precisely what make cycling such a fascinating sport. The suffering is part of what makes it enjoyable.
Meghalaya has many top-class athletes in cycling with well-known names like Anissa Lamare, Titus Ch. Marak, Meban Aiboklang Suiam, and many others. They are mostly downhill riders, but I do believe that long-distance endurance races are something that the state can offer to many interested athletes. In fact, there was one race that was organized last year in Nongnah in which a friend of mine took part. I don’t take part in such races because I am not strong enough, and I enjoy riding because it allows me to experience the landscape and not just fight against it. And I am sure there are many others who feel the same.
In the last few years since I have taken up cycling, I have come across many cyclists on my rides. Quite a few were foreigners. With roads improving rapidly but traffic still light, the surrounding areas of Shillong within a radius of 100 km offer great opportunities for rides. One doesn’t even have to carry any food since there are numerous Kong Shops on the way, many of which are now open on Sundays as well.
The state, therefore, can be a destination for amateur cyclists who can come to Shillong, hire a bike from shops like Procycling and Pedal Compass, travel to the tourist spots on a cycle, and come back on the same day. Those who are stronger can go for longer rides. Meghalaya is already being billed as a tourist destination. This could be another package that can be offered. I, for one, would be very excited about it.
(The views expressed in the article are those of the author and do not reflect in any way his affiliation to any organisation or institution)
