Patricia Mukhim
The Khasi Hills District Council must be commended for conceptualizing the Monolith Festival at Mawphlang and creating the Khasi Heritage Village adjacent to the sacred groves. The Festival, started in 2014 drew a huge crowd even then. Last year there was a break on account of the International Terra Madre (ITM) .This time the 3-day Fest beginning march 31, is being organized by the Khasi Heritage Conservation Forum (KHCF), comprising tour operators and tour promoters like Alan West Kharkongor , Banlum Blah amongst others. On the inaugural day, it was as if the gods were there to bless the event which had people from across the state participating. Hence while Shillong was lashed by hailstorm and rain, Mawphlang was dry, albeit cold and breezy. But it was a nice weather befitting the ambience and the occasion.
Dignitaries from the Governor downwards donned the traditional Khasi Jymphong (waistcoat) and the jainspong khor (turban), while the lovely young damsels from the neighbouring villages and different hima (chieftainships) dressed in their finery waiting to perform their dances.
Adding rhythm to the Festival was Nick Don, Maxter Warjri and their team of singers who rendered the theme song. The song is a call to unity and brotherhood. Composed and set to tune by Sylvester Mukhim it was rendered with great finesses by the best artistes of Shillong. The lilting melody and mood-lifting Khasi drum beats got everyone tapping their feet.
The Festival was artistically choreographed and every action was meaningful. Governor Shanmuganathan took part in the traditional inauguration ceremony called, ‘Ka Theh Ka Diang’ a water ceremony with a clear message of, ‘respecting diversity while celebrating unity.’ For the young audience this is a glimpse into the rich cultural practices of the Khasis when they lived alongside nature and when the word ‘Mei Ramew’ (mother nature) actually meant something.
Past experiences have taught the people of Mawphlang, the KHADC and the organizers a few things. One, that people cannot just stroll into the Sacred Grove but would have to be accompanied by volunteers upon payment of a certain sum of money. Second, the public toilets created are equal to the best and are well looked after. Third, the arrangement of the stalls and the articles on display were remarkably orderly. Every stall was made of biodegradable material. Fourth, it was a plastic free event and this was publicized ahead of the Festival so people knew they had to bring their own carry bags. These are important lessons in our collective endeavour to conserve nature.
Across the Heritage Village is the Iew Bah (a recreation of the Iewduh, Shillong’s biggest traditional market) which had several food stalls and locally produced vegetables, muras (short bamboo crafted stools), a range of bamboo crafts and mats (shylliah), organically grown fruits and pure honey sourced from the different villages of Khasi and Jaintia Hills.
But the stalls that drew the largest crowd were those selling hand-woven Eri silk stoles, scarves and mufflers from the weavers of Ri Bhoi district. Over the years the weavers in and around Umden village of Ri Bhoi have attracted a number of visitors from across the world. The German Government Foundation, GIZ has been working closely with these weavers to help them refine the weaves through better cleansing process of the cocoons and to come up with products that are now sough to be exported to a niche market in Europe and elsewhere. GIZ has assisted the weavers in playing around with more organic dyes and to mix and match the colours. There are Eri stoles with an array of colours on display at the Monolith Fest instead of only the ‘Thohrew Stem’ or the off-white ones which we were used to in the recent past. While the Thohrew-Stem is like an heirloom, (once you have bought it you don’t need another in a whole lifetime), this also meant that the market for it was limited. Now with the use of different dyes and a variety of designs ladies can mix and match their stoles to their dresses and jainsems.
Also, as a people we must acknowledge that Daniel Syiem, our ace designer who has popularized the Eri silk all over the country and abroad is one prime reason why this silk is becoming a must-have item. Daniel has just showcased his designs recently at London and Geneva. Last year Daniel created waves with his deigns at the Terra Madre festival at Torino. This is how far the humble Eri silk known as the Ryndia in Khasi has travelled.
It is also heartening to note that one of our own folklorists who has travelled extensively to speak on Khasi folklore – Dr Desmond Kharmawphlang – of North Eastern Hill University’s Department of Cultural and Creative Studies, in collaboration with Madeline Tham of Lady Keane College is choreographing a drama based on Soso Tham’s, “Ki Sngi barim U Hynniewtrep.” The drama revisits the Khasi way of life and the value systems of the past which have now given way to greed, consumerism and corruption, often at the cost of the natural environment. The universally relevant Khasi tenets ‘earn your right’ (Kamai ia ka Hok) and, ‘To know God is to know man’ (Tip briew, tip Blei) are now clashing with the modern Khasi worldview. Perhaps the idea of enacting this drama is to rekindle these values in the present generation. Drama used to be part and parcel of Khasi society but the inability to sustain this form of valuable entertainment has certainly deprived us of moments of quiet reflection.
One of the evils that have pervaded the once egalitarian Khasi society is the VIP culture which we have inherited from the caste ridden Indian social system. At least for this Monolith Festival, which in essence is a celebration of Khasi culture one wishes that there was no need for car passes; that everyone is treated with equal deference; that you did not have such a heavy deployment of police force including the SOT. Also that if there is not enough space to park cars then all cars should be parked at a particular place and shuttle buses should take the visitors to the venue. If we are to revisit our culture we have to be ready to jettison some of these oppressive modern adaptations of which the VIP culture is the most nauseating. If politicians still want to cling tightly to this VIP cult then they should not be lecturing people about value systems, about brotherhood and unity. How can there be unity when there is so much distance between politicians and the people who elect them?
It is an eyesore to behold the conspicuous presence of a large number of police personnel in every event held anywhere in Meghalaya. I want to ask the so-called VIPs what or who are they afraid of? Governor Shanmuganathan, was until yesterday a field worker of the RSS, not given to security paraphernalia. If he decides to trim down his VIP entourage it will be a good example for lesser mortals to follow. Also, why does the inaugural function have to be so lengthy and interspersed with so many speeches? People don’t come to such festivals to listen to boring political speeches. Most people get away to places out of Shillong hoping they would get a respite from politics but politics seems to follow them everywhere! Even the VAB was mentioned and the Governor urged to pass it. Is the Monolith festival about political leveraging or is it about giving people an opportunity to revisit their culture? The Festival may have been funded by the KHADC but it is not about the KHADC. It is about KHASI CULTURE and its revival and the event is publicly funded. So the CEM should not mistake one for the other.
On this note I rest my case but congratulate the Organizers – the KHCF who have worked very hard to put together this Festival. They must have had sleepless nights. We wish them all the best but also hope that they don’t bend over backwards to accommodate senseless VIP protocols.
Having said all that, I would encourage everyone to visit the Monolith Fest and have a first- hand experience of what it is to taste healthy yet lip-smacking indigenous food; to witness the wonderful performances from a galaxy of troupes from the different hima, raid and shnong and to sample culture from up close. It is a wonderful feeling…