Rishabh Dey is fascinated by a hilltop ashram in Guwahati that has a Mahabharata connection
Had it not been for Swami Purnabratananda Maharaj, assistant secretary of Bharat Sevashram Sangha’s (BSS) Shillong unit, a hilltop ashram at Pandu in Guwahati would perhaps have eluded me. This place offering a breathtaking view of river Brahmaputra flowing by, is linked to the Mahabharata.
The Temple Ghat at Pandu is dotted with historic religious monuments. The name Pandu – earlier Pandunath village – derived its name from the Pandavas of Mahabharata fame. According to the official website of Shri Shri Pandunath Devalaya, it is believed that Lord Vishnu killed two demons, Madhu and Kaitava, at the present site of the pristine Pandunath Temple. Vishnu during his Varaha Avatar had taken the form of Pandunath as a shila (rock). The scriptures note that in Dwapar Yuga, the Pandavas during their exile visited this place and consecrated six idols of Lord Ganesha with the help of Lord Vishwakarma. The Pandavas also took bath here which is now known as Pandu Ghat. From there the brothers proceeded to Kamakhya Temple.
Just above Pandunath Devalaya is the tranquil ashram of Om Baba on a hill. Om Baba, an accomplice of Rishi Aurobindo was acquitted in the Alipore bomb blast case in Calcutta during a rebellion against the British Raj, retired to this hill to undergo intense medition. Many from that revolutionary group later led cloistered lives. His wife too lived a life of a spiritualist while his two sons took to monkhood. Om Baba named his ashram, R’jwathri, ‘R’jwa’ meaning upward, tall, where one can reach the higher realms and ‘thri’ meaning hills. Swami Purnabratananda, who is taking care of this Ashram now in appreciation of the name R’jwathri said, “The greatness of Om Baba can be gauged from this apt name.”
After the demise of Om Baba, there was none to look after the ashram. In 1987, Swami Bangobindo Maharaj from Om Baba Ashram Trust at Dibrugarh in Assam gave a proposal to former Kolkata-based BSS secretary Swami Vikashananda Maharaj for taking over the responsibility of the Pandu ashram. But it was not taken immediately for some reasons. Later in 2007, Gauhati University’s Sanskrit department head Priyanshu Upadhayay who was taking care of the ashram property, apprised BSS that the hill campus had been illegally occupied by a number of religious and educational organizations besides the general public from all sides.
“Priyanshuji said that we must take up the responsibility of the ashram or else it cannot be saved,” said Swami Purnabratananda who has recently been made member of Om Baba Ashram Trust. In 2010, the ashram was handed over to BSS. Two students – Pintu (degree) and Pankaj (higher secondary) – are engaged by BSS to look after the ashram while taking responsibility of their education.
Upadhayay, who grew up in Om Baba Ashram at Dibrugarh and had seen the monk closely, had said: “Om Baba used to say that without selfless intelligence, aishwarya (wealth) cannot be attained.” He also narrated several incidents about the lives of Om Baba who led a very austere life. During Assam agitation period, Upadhayay said that the Pandu Ashram was not touched although Kalipur Ashram among others was affected to certain extent. “Such is the blessings of Om Baba that nothing ever touched us,” said Upadhayay, who passed away recently.
There is an inexplicable feeling of the ‘One’ in this Ashram. A small hut, an ideal shelter to reach the divine where Om Baba used to live is nestled amidst dense trees and rocks overseeing river Brahmaputra. This river runs on the northern foothills of the Ashram as the sight of it from uphill is breathtaking. The chirping of different bird species early morning provides natural meditation music whereas their tweeting throughout the day fills ones heart with joy. The bigger predatory variants, such as, falcons and eagles too adorns the sky overhead. The squirrels run untiringly in the woods – which emanates sounds of different types of insects and creatures. A roundish rock where Om Baba used to sit and meditate is located in an arena beside an all side open meditation shrine. A 92-year old temple marks the rear of this Ashram. The old style roundish columns and door sized windows with large verandas, big open hall for devotees gives the sense of divinity that is associated with this old structure. There are numerous medicinal plants, fruit trees, flora and fauna that mark the entire hill of this ashram. The sunlight penetrating through these trees with cool river breeze flowing uphill is just the right kind of salubrious environment that needs to heal a tired mind and body. An excellent site for engaging with the almighty, this is truly a blessed place to undertake the path to god realization and spirituality, besides rejuvenating oneself physically and mentally.
And this is exactly what Swami Purnabratananda is trying to put in place. This ashram will be developed into a Vedic Retreat Centre with all spiritual amenities. A unit of BSS now it will offer spiritual retreat with meditation – Yoga Therapy Centre, Vedic Learning Centre for in-house children, an auditorium for spiritual and cultural activities accommodating 300-500, hostel for poor adivasi children, Srimat Swami Pranabananada Sevaniketan – free medical unit for the needy among others.
Chandrasekhar Sastri, an erudite scholar on Vedas, will impart lessons to aspirants of yoga and meditation in a residential setup. For the betterment of these aspirants, a boat named ‘Kandari’ will operate from the northern foothills of the ashram connecting various pilgrimages like Doul Gobindo, Dirgeshwari, Umananda Ashram, Sukreshwar Ghat among others located on both sides of the river. A river ghat will be developed on this side to connect the other sides. Swami Purnabrata said that they will name the boat Kandari meaning leader after a same boat was used by BSS founder Srimat Swami Pranabanandaji Maharaj along with his monks on preaching mission in Bangladesh. He used this boat to reach out the people of the country where the numerous low lands, rivers and canals always remain submerged in water.
An ideal place for spiritual self development away from the noise and pollution of the city, this ashram has Art of Living, Anukul Thakur Ashram on either side operating at its foothills. The Katia Baba Ashram is located on the northeastern side in another hill with the Pandunath Village on the southern side. A port managed by the Port Authority of India is located in Pandunath Village, which is a major hub of river transport facilities. The sunset view at the backdrop of Saraighat Bridge is another awesome site. One can reach this Ashram from Maligaon Charali to Temple Ghat in shared auto rickshaws followed by a five-minute walk uphill. The nearest airport is Guwahati Airport and railway station at Kamakhya.