By Esha Chaudhuri
Traditionally the jainkyrshah is donned as a drape that is worn by women, symbolizes engagement with chores whether at home or in a public space. This unique piece of cloth is worn by the women folk of the Khasi and Jaintia communities; the drape is conventional in its outlook but celebratory and nuanced with its modern touch of being free-sized, all embracing of body positivity and yet so rooted in culture. Also, serving as an apron in the private spaces, the jainkyrshah is worn to prevent soiling of clothes worn under it – either the jainsem or a long skirt and a blouse.
Creating a fuse of traditionalism and modernity, the Fashion Society Shillong brings forth its annual calendar themed on the jainkyrshah. Sunday Shillong explores facets of fashion interweaved with modern touches of frills, thrills, capturing emotive aspects and the meaning.
Taking it a notch higher
Symbolizing modesty and respect, the jainkyrshah has been an age-old cultural representation of the indigenous populace. Raising the bar of showcasing the conventional affair, the Fashion Society Shillong built its annual calendar of 2022 on the theme of the Jainkyrshah Fusion Ensemble. This time, however, adding its spin on the existing fashion sensibilities. Detailing on the conceptualizing of the theme, Chairman of Fashion Society Shillong, Aldous Mawlong says, “The concept of the calendar came up since 2020, this being the third edition. We first began with a tribal fusion theme, then the dhara (a traditional dress of Khasi women) version and now the jainkyrshah.” He adds, “The Fashion Society actively engaged in a series of brain storming sessions involving friends from all walks of life and different age groups. Many ideas emanated from these sessions and then we came up with the idea of the jainkyrshah, as we were looking to photograph activities of women engaged in daily and common chores across different stratas.”
A Touch of Modernity
A common visual of the checked fabric in green, red, blue, pink, and black is tied on the left shoulder or latched daintily with a pin. This humble attire, with the team effort of designer, Duncan Kharman, photographers Baia Marbaniang, Ku Lyngdoh Mawnai and Manchwa Pyrbot have under the watch of the Fashion Society created imaginative designs by capturing the models in enigmatic frames. On the idea of the calendar, Photographer Manchwa Pyrbot expressed his satisfaction saying, “The jainkyrshah calendar 2022 is something that showcases the work of local artists and talents, with a strong cultural background. I believe that supporting such a cause means supporting something that is for the good of the culture and the community.”
Speaking to one of the models of the shoot, Nika Brunie Tariang verbalises, “I feel that the entire theme of the jainkyrshah tells a story – a story of struggle and hardwork by the women of the Khasi society.” Elaborating her point, Tariang says, “Women are indeed made of strong matter – mentally and emotionally. The Khasi society is blessed with a matrilineal way of life where the role of women has been central. To me, wearing a jainkyrshah stands for this pride, and therefore turning it into something fashionable is something to be proud of!”
Visual Appeal and Fashion
The subject matter of the calendar has been one to make a fashion statement among the local brethren. Commenting on the thematic trend for the year, designer of the jainkyrshah series, Duncan Kharmon elucidates, “Over the years, the calendars were collaborated with Samantha Rumnong and guided by Aldous Mawlong, the Chairman of Fashion Society Shillong. It gratifies me to grow with them from project to project, promoting my business and stature as well.”
To add to the creative process, Kharmon further adds, “I always play with designs, motifs and colours, by paying special attention to details like shoes and jewelry. Concepts attract me especially when they carry an indigenous theme. I love to make the ordinary dazzle.”
In words of Mawlong, “The calendar was aimed to document our activities and showcase the talents of our designers, models, photographers and make-up artistes, against the scenic backdrops of Meghalaya.” Building his perspective further, he adds, “The humble jainkyrshah is a common household apparel worn by the indigenous women while also gaining popularity with others as well. We stretched our imagination to give it a chic look while highlighting the common chores that an ordinary woman would normally perform, be it in an urban or rural setting.”
Speaking on her experience of the shoot, Tariang uncovers, “There’s beauty in every form of hard work and struggle. The very idea of wearing a jainkyrshah in fusion style itself gives me the thrill of wanting to wear it and showcase it. It’s something new, creative, innovative and nothing can go wrong with wearing a jainkyrshah.”
Bring People Together
As any person of the state, it is a common visual that not just the indigenous but also the non-indigenous people wear the fabric too! On this observation, Mawlong opines, “Yes, it is heartening to see even the non-natives sporting this apron that was earlier worn only by the locals. Besides, the response on the calendar has been stupendous, with well-wishers from across sections complimenting on each issue.”
To get a local perspective on the subject, Sunday Shillong also interacted with some of the citizens in Shillong, and the responses were as follows – Student of Fashion Studies, Alka Chettri says, “I’m not a Khasi, but the women in my house have been wearing the jainkyrshah for generations. I think it’s about comfort and grace. I would love for a dress version of it to wear it out too.” Commenting on the calendar, she says, “I saw it (the calendar) and I think it is a great concept. We had a similar version in the past by another reputed Fashion Designer in Shillong, and it never gets old.”
Speaking to another citizen, Mewan Nongbri articulates, “I associate the jainkyrshah with the warmth of home. I’ve seen all the women of my house across generations wear it and it’ll always be a pure emotion for me. I hope the future generations do not make it obsolete.”
Expressing her comfort with all things established, vegetable vendor, Risakynti Swer (aka Kong Mina) says, “I have known the jainkyrshah to be an attire worn almost all days of the year. My children coax me into wearing a formal dhara on occasions but I tell them that if I could sew a refined version of the jainkyrshah, I would prefer it over other attires.” (Kong Mina laughs)
As Mawlong appropriately describes it, “The jainkyrshah is here to stay. We thank all those who have supported this project, amongst other endeavors. We request for such unstinted sustenance in the days to come.”
Captured by the artists through their show of poise, lights, camera, makeup and script writing, the gingham fabric so dear to all in the state has most definitely reached new heights! As we close the January chapter with a calendar celebrating the feminine energy, our hopes are high up for a year wrapped with luck and good fortunes.