Keshav Pariat on a hitherto unexplored village in Meghalaya that is simply out of this world
TECHNOLOGY HAS made the world a smaller place, but it has also expanded it into others that we may never have seen or experienced. Although Meghalaya is a small state, there are many hidden gems still to be explored, calling to us to venture out from our city lives.
Two hours’ drive south of Shillong, past Mawsynram, lies Mawlyngbna, a village of a few hundred families nestled above the plains of Bangladesh. Mawlyngbna is actually one of four villages clustered together and its attractions are many.
Surrounding the gentle and bountiful hills are opportunities to feel your way through caves, enjoy natural springs, waterfalls and a community-owned forest, or just take a dip in one of many swimming holes. Beginner kayakers can take a trip down to the Umkhakoi Water Reservoir, a perfect introduction for those starting out in the adventure sport.
Bring along a good pair of shoes and some stamina and you will be able to trek through time. For Mawlyngbna has within its confines a plateau of fossils dating back millions of years when the entire area was a part of the sea floor.
A few more minutes walking the well beaten paths through the tall grass lies what could easily be the remnants of a more fabled time. For the rocks here seem to have been trod on by the feet of mysterious creatures. Whether by the movement of water over its surface, the ground has the appearance of numerous footprints, like what might be imagined of Iew Luri-Lura, where the animals came together to trade with each other in a more mysterious time.
Other activities include mountain biking for the adventurous and angling for others more inclined to relax by the peaceful waters.
Cultural pursuits are not to be missed either. Most of the villagers, who make their living off the land, hold to the traditional Khasi faith and music, dances and festivals are all celebrated with gaiety, as explained by T Kharnaior, Chairman of the local cooperative society. Mawlyngbna also boasts of a village night market, a perfect way to while away the evening before dinner.
The development of tourism in Mawlyngbna has a very natural, organic feel to it. There is no sense that the idea for a tourist getaway has been transplanted by city folk and that is because the project is owned by the Mawlyngbna Multipurpose Cooperative Society, run by the villagers themselves, with initial impetus provided by the office of the Registrar of Cooperative Societies, especially RV Suchiang and D Vijay Kumar, who gave a real push to the idea.
In a joint initiative by the government of Meghalaya and village cooperative societies, the Explore Exotic Meghalaya brand was created to promote eco, adventure and sustainable tourism in the state.
Several villages have been selected to act as Traveller’s Nests, with Umden, in Ri-Bhoi, being the first to officially open last year. Mawlyngbna will have its inauguration this month, although it is already up and running.
There are two twin-bedded cottages overlooking the villages with a common dining area commanding fantastic views all the way into Bangladesh.
The food provided is simple and hearty and the cottages are comfortable without being luxurious. They have been designed to cater to your needs in the expectation that you will spend most of your time engaging in the many activities on offer around the village. Set amidst the trees, visitors will be lulled to sleep by the chirp of the unseen cicadas outside.
A host of activities can be planned out according to taste and length of stay and your guides may perform above the call of duty in sharing with you some wild honey straight from the comb or showing you which pitcher plants are safe to drink from; the liquid is supposedly good for gastric issues, among others.
Despite the fact that they seem perfectly at east leaping from boulder to boulder without losing their feet, the guides are also careful to keep an eye on the tourists and see to it that they negotiate the forest paths easily.
The partnership between the government and the villagers in this project has been a well intentioned and successful one. The state provided the initial funds to invest in the infrastructure and the villagers also received training in hospitality and in becoming guides.
The project has the potential to sustain itself in the long run by making a direct impact in employment by giving opportunities for the villagers, especially the youth, who now do not have to venture into the cities to make a living.
There is also a very real incentive in maintaining the glorious environment around the village and the project has generated tremendous pride among the residents. The intention for the cooperative is to have one member from each household involved. Everyone will thus have a stake financially, but also in a very emotional way.
Much has been said about tourism in Meghalaya and all the benefits that could accrue from developing the state’s potential, but Mawlyngbna is a real example of how tourism can bring very real benefits to the people in a way that day trips to Elephant Falls, Sohra or Mawlynnong might not be able to do.
If there is one thing that can give Mawlyngbna’s potential a real shot in the arm, it is improving the road network. Compared to the excellent Shillong-Sohra route, the road to Mawlyngbna is a little bumpy, although some improvements are ongoing.
So far most guests have been from outside the state, but it is a perfect place for a weekend getaway for Shillongites. More than that, it is also a fantastic way to get to know our own backyard, the real, magical Meghalaya.