Arup D Purkayastha never wanted an armchair career in a government office nor did he want to get buried under files in a private firm. This is the reason why he quit his career as a banker to plunge into a venture that was unknown in the northeastern region.
A visit to Kolkata in 2004 changed many things for Purkayastha who was fascinated by the amalgamation of technology and art at an embroidery workshop there. He made up his mind to explore the option.
“I had dabbled in several ventures because I never wanted a 9 to 5 job. So I decided to introduce computerised embroidery in Shillong. In fact, my workshop was the first of its kind in the region. Now there are a few units in Guwahati too,” says Purkayastha.
The 56-year-old entrepreneur set up his workshop, Balonetique, in 2004 on the premises of his residence in Rilbong. He started with two small machines which he had to import from Germany through a dealer.
With no signboard to shout out loud about the works of art practised inside, the workshop with four workers sits camouflaged adjacent to the Assam-type structure.
“I received basic training from Kolkata. Also, a man, who deals in the embroidery machines, helped me,” says Purkayastha.
Initially, Purkayastha started with less work orders like making logos on state police’s uniforms. But as he picked up the nuances of the business and honed his creative skills over time, work started flowing in. Now, he gets orders from all over the North East. “I make logos for most of the schools in the city (Purkayastha caters to over 1,500 schools in and outside the state). Among my clients are Meghalaya Police, BSF, the army, Assam Rifles and police departments in other northeastern states, to name a few,” says Purkayastha as he shows the samples of hundreds of logos pinned on a board inside the humble workshop.
Political parties too come to Purkayastha’s Balonetique on special occasions. The bespectacled owner of the embroidery boutique says, with a hint of pride in his voice, that he made the design on the uttorio that the state BJP leadership welcomed Prime Minister Narendra Modi with during one of his visits to the state.
“I also make special uttorio before Durga Puja as well as local festivals. I research extensively through internet before zeroing in on motifs. Since I am the only person who does computerised embroidery, so people usually come to me,” he informs. He uses Wilcom software to thread together his creative ideas.
Purkayastha has also worked for James Syiemiong, football clubs, bikers and churches.
The workshop is also flooded with orders for designs on jainsems and saris. Clients sometimes bring in their own designs but most of those visiting the workshop describe their ideas to Purkayastha who gives shape to them. The proprietor spreads a few creations on a wooden table in the workshop for display. Each design is exclusive with unique motif. From geometric shapes, floral and abstract patterns to traditional motifs, Purkayastha never ceases to experiment.
This is one reason that draws several women to the workshop cum boutique. Purkayastha says he has designed a sari for his wife too.
Talking about “interesting demands” from clients, the designer says, “Once someone wanted me to embroider a dog motif on the upholstery because they had many canines at home. It was challenging but I enjoy working on innovative ideas,” he says and brings out a Khasi ryndia with a traditional man and a woman embroidered on it.
“It is true that demand is high for embroidery works on jainsem, sari and other dress materials and upholstery, especially before festivals, but with less manpower and flow of orders from regular clients make it difficult for us to cater to such needs,” he explains
Purkayastha installed a nine-head machine in 2008. This made his work easier as he started accepting more orders and deliver them on time. Now, the workshop has three small machines and one big.
Embroidery is an old form of art, of decorating fabric or other materials with thread weavings. The form of embellishments on fabric was popular in India even in the third century. Many believe that this form of handicraft had its origin in the East. However, the word embroidery comes from the French word broderie meaning embellishment.
Though traditionally considered women’s handicrafts, embroidery has transcended gender boundary with time and technology. Purkayastha says computers make the work easier and “one has to just feed the design into the embroidery machine”.
Easy it may be, but running the business in Shillong is not simple. Purkayastha says the biggest challenge is the haberdashery. The thread that is used for the designs is not available here, and has to be procured from Kolkata and as far as Trichur. The right materials and certain equipments are unavailable too.
Besides, if a machine, which is worth lakhs, develops a glitch there is no expert in the city to mend it. “These things are really major hurdles because the process to procure raw materials is time-consuming and affects productivity,” he rues.
Despite the impediments, Purkayastha hopes to expand the business by installing more machines. “It is more than a business to me. It has become my passion now. I left my banking job for this despite the apparent uncertainties. It is my happiness,” says the soft-spoken designer. When it is time to take leave, Purkayastha talks about another concern. This time he speaks not with knitted brows but with a faint smile, “I am not too sure who will take this workshop forward after me.”
~ NM
