SHILLONG, Aug 4: Khneng Embroidery, a 200-year-long tradition that is unique to Meghalaya and is also the only known traditional embroidery technique of the state, was once phasing out. But the North East Slow Food Agrobiodiversity Society (NESFAS) took up the mantle of preserving and reviving the age-old craft starting 2014 and since then it has been making a gradual but consistent comeback.
In keeping with the objective of promoting Khneng embroidery and to celebrate and recognise the artisans who have kept this unique tradition alive, the Department of Arts and Culture and the Department of Textiles, in collaboration with NESFAS, will be organising the Khneng Embroidery Competition to commemorate National Handloom Day on August 7.
The programme will highlight the indigenous and artistic tribal dexterity in weaves as part of India@75 and Meghalaya@50 programmes in the country in general and Meghalaya in particular.
A number of Khneng embroiderers are participating in the competition on different themes such as ‘Unsung Heroes of Meghalaya’, ‘Well known freedom fighters/national leaders of India’, ‘Gandhi on spinning wheel (textile theme)’, ‘Chakra’, ‘Indian Flag’, and ‘Meghalaya – India @75 logo’.
Competitors have been given the freedom to showcase their embroidery skills in any form — stole, wall hanging, runners, masks, mufflers, clutches, laptop/tablet bag, pencil cases, tea coaster, wine coaster, napkin, etc.
It also promises to enhance the visibility of the art and the artisans amongst an emerging and discerning audience.
FR Kharkongor, Commissioner and Secretary, Department of Textiles, expressed his delight in partnering with NESFAS for the competition, and shared, “The joint initiative taken would contribute in widening, deepening, and expanding Khneng embroidery in the days to come ”.
The word ‘Khneng’ roughly translates to ‘border’ in Khasi and the inspiration of the embroidery pattern is drawn from a local insect called ‘ktiar’ that resembles a centipede.
A single line of thick band is stitched on one side of the jaiñpïen (wrap around) vertically. On a jaiñkup (shawl), a line of a thicker and a thinner band of Khneng embroidery is stitched horizontally. Two lines of embroidery are always stitched together on the shawl.
Until as recently as 2014, Khneng embroidery was a tradition that was slowly ebbing away in significance.
The art of embroidering the borders of jaiñpïen and jaiñkup of the womenfolk from Mustoh and Shella was being phased out as the number of artisans dwindled.
A headcount on the number of Khneng embroiderers in 2014 revealed a lowly figure of just three artisans from Mustoh who still possessed the skill of this unique embroidery technique.
Alarmed by the dangers of the total disappearance of Khneng embroidery, the importance of preserving and reviving this unique art was brought forward by Phrang Roy, founding chairperson of NESFAS, who originally hails from Mustoh.
In 2014, NESFAS struck up a collaboration with the Special Purpose Vehicle Society (SPVS), and took the decision to jointly work together in reviving Khneng embroidery.
Today, seven years later, after the intervention of NESFAS in reviving the practice of this unique art that was once on the verge of disappearing, Khneng embroidery is slowly making a comeback.
Presently, there are 18 Khneng embroiderers, however, skilful artisans are on the rise every year with every workshop.
