By Benjamin Lyngdoh
A bistro is a small and simple eatery which provides quick service. The meals are moderately priced so as to meet the needs of a variety of clientele. The food in a bistro is closely linked with the people and the culture of a place. It is a highlighting of the food habits of a particular people. That way, a Khasi Jadoh Stall (serving Khasi cuisine) is basically a bistro in its truest form depicting the culinary arts of a local entrepreneur. Every bistro has its unique selling proposition and signature item. In a Khasi bistro, it is primarily the jadoh (a specialised preparation of rice with meat) and a wide variety of meat preparations which goes with various chutneys. A common call in a Khasi bistro is ‘ai da ka jadoh bad ka doh khleh’ (give me a serving of the specialised rice and meat preparation). The clientele extends from the high income segments to the lowest income ones. This tells us of the scale and potential of a Khasi bistro. However, many (and even amongst the Khasis) do not give much importance to it. We will hardly come across people talking about it with excitement. If the locals themselves are not excited, what can we expect from the tourist/traveller? It is an unrealized potential. This throws into focus the various nuances of this common but rarely noticed representation of Khasi culture. Where are things going wrong?
To start with, the origins of a bistro can be traced to 19th century France. It took off during and after the Napoleonic wars of the early 19th century with the bistros golden period being the early 20th century till the start of the First World War in 1914. Although the origins of a bistro as a business entity is claimed to have a Russian connection in language/etymology, this is mostly debated and discarded by many researchers (mostly French). Keeping this debate aside, the fact of the matter is that the bistro as an economic sector did contribute a lot to the promotion and marketing of French culture in culinary arts and fine dining. In the case of a Khasi bistro, the journey has been chequered. There are good points to be proud about and there are shortcomings too. These shortcomings have been ignored for far too long and as a result we have a situation of its potential being unrealized, both in terms of cultural promotion and economic returns. The Khasi cuisine is rich in variety and nutrition. The array of rice, meat, vegetables and chutneys are nourishing for the body and fulfilling for the soul. If we think in terms of a healthy eating habit, a Khasi bistro is the place to go to. This is something to be proud of and partake from. Amidst this potential, it is frustrating to witness stagnancy and decline of Khasi bistros in recent years.
If we look into the reasons for the struggles and shortcomings of a Khasi bistro, the things that come to the forefront are mostly elementary. Cleanliness and tidiness is foremost. Many do struggle on this aspect and some do not seem to give any importance to it. The high frequency of consumers eating would also mean adequate attention to repeated cleaning of the enterprise. This is lacking. Food is just one aspect of a bistro, cleanliness and presentation of the enterprise to the clientele is another. In a time where the consumers have become very health conscious, cleanliness is the leading factor in the picking of a bistro. In addition, the service delivery also lacks in many aspects. In small business, soft skill such as communications, problem solving, negotiation, etiquette, etc becomes important. This is what makes the consumers stick with a particular bistro. In general, many Khasi bistros do not factor this. Yes, it is true that we cannot expect all the bistros to operate at a high level of professionalism; but, the minimum level of service quality and soft skills is a must. Sometimes the internal layout of the bistro also becomes a disadvantage. In many cases, the dish washing space is clearly visible to the consumers seated at the tables. It is sort of an awkward situation and if it is not well maintained and clean, it becomes a problem.
As an intervention, if the issues concerning cleanliness, service delivery, soft skills, etc can be taken care of, then it can fairly be argued that the clientele of a Khasi bistro will only increase manifold. As concerned and responsible consumers one must make some time to discuss with the bistros on such issues. ‘Make aware, give ideas and motivate’ must be the mantra of all consumers to help out. In addition, the youth who are trained in entrepreneurship and small business can take this entire experience of a Khasi bistro to the next level. Being adequately trained, one can expect them to position bistros as one of the beacons of Khasi culture and culinary arts. The possibilities and potentials are immense. Just some dedication and professionalism is required. This way they can compete with the other eateries serving Indian, Chinese, continental cuisines etc. But, the point to be factored here is that without adopting a professional approach to business the Khasi bistro will not be in a position to compete effectively. That way, a lot is expected from the trained youth.
On a very recent trek to Nongriat village (5th January, 2022), it was heartening to see the growth in small businesses as compared to the year 2014. However, in relation to a Khasi bistro the problem remains the same. The representation, attractiveness and service delivery leaves a lot to be desired. This is the main reason as to why our bistros get such a poor response from the tourist. No tourist was giving them any attention. It is high time for concerned citizens and students to create awareness amongst the local entrepreneurs. The trained youth can lead the way by setting up a professional enterprise and show by example. In East Khasi Hills, there is a sizeable presence of Meghalaya Basin Development Authority (MBDA) activities. It would be a good idea if they include training and development programmes involving Khasi bistros so as to work towards realizing the potential of such businesses and entrepreneurs. This similar model may be applied in other areas as well where MBDA has a presence. In addition, tourism societies, learned community members and NGOs may also think in similar lines.
Finally putting a focus on Khasi bistros is a win-win situation both in terms of highlighting culture through food and its culinary arts and the economic returns that can be tapped. Sadly, this remains the unrealized potential of a Khasi bistro. As a reaction to this shortcoming this is a clarion call to the concerned to help start reversing the trend. All that is needed is a little talk and discussion with the bistros. In return, the rewards are not far off!
(Email: [email protected]; the writer teaches at NEHU)