Students’ CORNER
By Abhismita Das
(Lady Keane College)
As the sun sets behind the misty hills and a cold breeze sweeps through the narrow lanes of Police Bazar, Shillong transforms and the streets come to life.
The hum of evening shoppers and the clatter of steel plates, oil hissing on hot pans, and the murmur of hungry locals fills the air coupled with the aroma of grilled pork, momos sizzling on trays, and the bubbling ‘Tungtap’ chutney.
They blend into a symphony and tell you a story that only the streets of this hill town can compose: “Shillong is hungry and it’s cooking up stories of absolute fantastic and unique delicacies.”
Nested in the heart of Meghalaya, this capital city is not only known for its happening music scene and mountains covered in pine trees, but also for its vibrant street food culture that pulls in locals and tourists alike.
Flavours of the Hills
The journey begins in bustling Police Bazar, where steaming plates of momos — stuffed with pork, chicken or vegetables such as cabbages — fly off counters faster than the vendor can wrap them. Alongside momos, chowmein stalls compete with dishes like Jadoh, a Khasi speciality made with rice, pork, and local spices served hot with a tangy chilli chutney.
A little further from Police Bazar is Laitumkhrah, where you’ll find another world of flavours. Charcoal-grilled pork sizzles at roadside grills while young college-goers gather around stalls selling ‘Dohneiiong’ (tender pork cooked with black sesame) and ‘Doh Khleh’ (a cold meat salad with onions, chillies, and a hint of lime). For those with a liking for the traditional, there is also Tungrymbai (fermented Soybean Paste) which is served with sticky rice a local delicacy that packs bold, earthy flavours.
Vendors with a story
But every stall in Shillong seems to have a story.
BB Nongrum, a woman in her Iate fifties, has been serving Fruit chaats and making Jadoh as well at her makeshift stall in Bara Bazar (Iewduh) and Police Bazaar for over a decade. We met people like Usha Sutradhar, 56, a very friendly and humble man who was willing to share his experience. “I have been selling all kinds of fast foods starting from chowmein to momos to crispy fritters. All made with love. People visit my shop and always leave with a full tummy and satisfaction in face, that’s when I know I’ve done it.
Similarly, Runa Das, conducting business near Don Bosco Square, feeds people her handmade steamy momos with love and a smile.
Throughout my survey, I’ve met a lot of such heartwarming people who were willing to tell me their story with open heart.
These vendors say, “Shillong has given us a lot. Not all days are easy. Shillong’s weather is unpredictable and so is our fortune. Some days, due to pleasant weather and festive seasons, we attract a lot of customers but then there are days with absolute chaos in the weather.”
“Dark gloomy windy days bring us no customer but only silence. In those days, our family members are half fed. In streets, without proper shade but just an umbrella, we have seen both good and bad days. But we never lose hope.”
“Our sole purpose was to feed people and we never forgot that,” they said.
More than a meal
Shillong’s street food isn’t just a feast for the stomach, it’s a celebration of identity. Khasi flavours blended with modern influences, yet never lose their essence. The use of bamboo shoot, fermented foods, and indigenous spices creates a distant palette unique to this part of India.
Shillong’s street food also mirrors the resilience and creativity of its people. From young entrepreneurs starting food carts of ‘alumuri’ and ‘chana mixture’ to elderly woman hand-rolling Putharo (steamed rice cakes), the food scene reflects both continuity and change.
Taste that stays with you
In Shillong, eating on the streets isn’t just a quick bite—it’s an experience hidden away in smoky grills that warm your hands on a cold evening, in the laughter shared over a plate of momos, or in the bold flavours that linger long after the last bite.
So, the next time you find yourself in the “Scotland of East”, follow the scent of these delicacies. And in some lanes and markets, Shillong serves more than food — it serves a taste of its heart.