By Our Reporter
SHILLONG, Oct 28: More than 50,000 families depend on Eri silk activities, underscoring the growing importance of Eri silk sector in Meghalaya, Principal Secretary of the Textiles department, Frederick R Kharkongor emphasised in his speech at a programme on the GI-registered handloom products of Meghalaya on Tuesday.
Kharkongor said that there are approximately 47,430 sericulture farmers and 42,755 weavers and allied workers directly or indirectly engaged in the sector. “This represents a major contribution to the state’s economic livelihoods, and the number continues to grow steadily,” he said.
The Principal Secretary added that Meghalaya produces around 14,000 metric tons of Eri cocoons annually. Remarkably, even during the COVID-19 pandemic, when most industries witnessed a slowdown, Eri production in the state saw an increase. “This clearly shows the resilience and dedication of our weavers and farmers — the work never really stopped,” he added.
Kharkongor recalled that in February this year, Meghalaya’s Eri silk received the Geographical Indication (GI) recognition from India, bringing national attention to the state’s unique textile heritage. The achievement, he said, was acknowledged by Prime Minister Narendra Modi, who mentioned it in his Mann Ki Baat broadcast in June.
Kharkongor added that the Prime Minister had also written to Chief Minister Conrad Sangma earlier, appreciating the Eri fabric for being handwoven, hand-spun, ethically sourced, organically produced, naturally dyed, and women-driven — qualities that make it a key part of India’s sunrise textile sector.
He noted that a few years ago, sericulture and weaving were mostly local, village-based activities that were nearly on the verge of extinction. “Through the concerted efforts of the government, various departments, and people at the grassroots level, there has been a remarkable revival of the Eri silk tradition in Meghalaya,” Kharkongor said.
He further recalled a major milestone achieved in 2021, when the Department of Textiles declared Umden-Diwon village in Ri-Bhoi district as India’s first Eri Silk Village, officially notified in the Government Gazette. The recognition of Umden-Diwon marked a turning point in reviving the state’s ancient silk heritage.
Following this initiative, the department pursued the GI registration process for Eri silk. However, the effort initially faced challenges due to the absence of a registered user group. To overcome this, the department facilitated the formation of the Meghalaya Eri Silk Producers’ Organisation, mobilising local weavers and stakeholders.
Kharkongor said that the department collected and compiled extensive historical documentation dating back 200-300 years, including British archival materials, French illustrations, and research works by international scholars. One notable example, he said, was a French magazine published 200 years ago that featured a sketch of the daughter of the Syiem of Sohra wearing a traditional Eri silk dress.
Research contributions from textile scholars, including a Scottish researcher named Anna, who had studied Khasi textiles and Eri weaving traditions, were also incorporated. Her work was published through the Royal College in London and featured in the Oxford Journal of Textiles.
“All these materials were compiled to document the entire Eri value chain — from farm to fiber, fiber to fabric, and fabric to fashion,” Kharkongor said. “This comprehensive documentation helped us present strong evidence during the GI hearing in Kolkata in November 2024, demonstrating the uniqueness of our production process.”
The programme was organised by the National Handloom Development Corporation (NHDC) in collaboration with the Directorate of Sericulture and Weaving, and supported by the Office of the Development Commissioner (Handlooms), Ministry of Textiles.
