By H H Mohrmen
The week that was is important because it also coincides with World Tourism Day. On this day (Sep 27) and subsequent days, many tourism-related articles were published in The Shillong Times. This should serve as an eye opener to those who continue to lobby for extractive mining that there are viable alternative livelihoods which are also sustainable in nature beyond mining.
Many communities in the state are now seeing the benefits of their area turning into a tourist attraction. In War Jaintia area of Amlarem sub division, a village like Shnongpdeng is beginning to reap the benefits of tourism. The problem is that while few villages have been able to achieve those heights other villages with the potential to attract tourists are yet to be able to develop themselves into places of tourist attraction par excellence. The good news is that many communities are now engaged in promoting their areas as places of tourist attraction.
Amlarem sub division or the War Jaintia area as the area is commonly known as is a tourist hotspot which is yet to be exploited. The entire region has the capacity to develop into a big tourist circuit if the people and the government are able to work together. The total number of villages in the sub division is 86 and being a border area, the villages in the region are located in the altitude which varies between 150 and 1200 metres above sea level which means that the area enjoys at least two climatic conditions.
The distance of Amlarem, the sub divisional headquarter is 27 kilometres from Jowai which is the district headquarter of west Jaintia hills district and the total area of the sub division is 398 square kilometres. The total population of the sub division as per 2011 census is 43,844 and the people who live here comprise the Wars, the Pnars and the Khynriams like in the village of Amtapoh. The Pnars live in the villages closer Jowai; from Demthriñ to Mupyut till Shkentalang and in Amlari village of eleka Satpator while the Wars can be found in the rest of the villages which begin from Thangbuli to Muktapur and Dawki in the border area. There are four elekas or dalloiships in the War Jaintia area; they are eleka Amwi, eleka Nongtalang, Satpator and Darang and some villages although situated in War Jaintia area, fall under the jurisdiction of the eleka Jowai.
Villages closest to Jowai like Moosakhia and Samanong which have the potential to attract tourists were selected and promoted by North East Slow Food and Agro-biodiversity Society (NESFAS) as visiting villages during the last Indigenous Tera Madre (ITM). Few kilometres down on the Jowai Amlarem road also known as Jowai-Amlarem-Dawki road is the area known as Thlumuwi. To the left one can see a huge stone bridge and near the bridge there are collections of monoliths which fall in the category of resting stones (maw shong thait) on the famous royal path from Nartiang to Jaiñtiapur. To the right is Thlumuwi falls which till recently was abandoned due to the pollution of water from coal mining upstream. Two years after the NGT ban on mining, the quality of the water in the river is beginning to improve thereby attracting picnickers to the falls.
Travelling towards Amlarem the two villages which have the potential to attract tourists are Thangbuli and A(U)mlatkhur and the unique selling point (USP) of these villages is the fact that they are the only villages which produce smoked fish. The District administration on a convergence mode has not only been able to develop the Jarain lake nearby but the DRDA West Jaintia hills in collaboration with the Basin Development Unit (BDU) West Jaintia hills district has been able to build the capacities of those involved in the activity very quickly. Using the MNREG scheme, DRDA will fund the construction of working sheds which also include a chimney for those involved in smoked fish activity in both the villages. This unique livelihood activity of the people in the two villages coupled with good working sheds and proper environment can also attract tourists to the area.
A large area in the Thangbuli and A/Umlatkhur village falls under the jurisdiction of the raid or the Buam clan. The area comprises a considerable track of forest land and it is also very close to the famous Krangshuri fall of Amlarem. The clan is working in tandem with the District administration to develop the area to increase footfalls to the already popular Krangshuri falls. Near the waterfall is yet another incomplete stone bridge over a small stream call U/Amjakniah with few beautiful stone carvings which could also attract tourists. Jarain village is famous for the pitcher plant and another recently discovered rare phenomenon which could be a potential tourist attraction are the migratory birds that come to a stream which villagers term as salt water. This phenomenon attracts birds by the hundreds between the months of July and October every year.
On reaching Amlarem, if one takes a left turn and proceeds on the Amlarem Muktapur road, the next important tourist spot in the area is the Syndai village. Syndai has many caves but the most popular cave is where the ancient temple is located and it is popular because it is one of the few tourist friendly caves in the region. This cave used to be a place of worship where the priest from Nartiang would perform puja in the temple near the cave. Stories abound that in the olden days, people from Nartiang (where the temple which is believed to be one of the shakti peeth is located) would walk on foot from Nartiang to Syndai to perform puja in the cave. With proper planning this place can also be promoted as a place for adventure and religious tourism.
Syndai not only has potential for adventure and as a place for pilgrimage for Hindus from across the country, but the area is also famous for its sculptures such as the Rupasor bathing ghat. The other sculpture is that of the elephant on the bank of the river Umpubon and near the cave and the temple is a huge sculpture of Ganesh which could also attract pilgrims to the area.
The road from Amlarem to Muktapur which is on the Bangladesh border could also be promoted as a cycling trail and it can continue till Dawki on the border road. The view of Bangladesh on this route is enchanting to say the least. Before reaching Muktapur if one takes a left turn one will reach Kharkhana village which has a tourist friendly cave recently discovered by the Meghalaya Adventurers Association. The cycling trail can also be from Amlarem to Khliehriat via Kharkhana, Borkhat and Bataw in the East Jaintia hills and another trail can be from Amlarem to Rymbai in east Jaintia hills via Pdengchakap and Lechka hydro project.
From Amlarem one can take the first left and travel to Padu which is only about 11 km. Padu is famous for its treks to the many root bridges and falls but Nongbareh has the most accessible root bridge in the area. Nongbareh is also famous for the fish sanctuary which has the rare chocolate mahseer which is on the list of endangered species of fish. Further down Nongbareh village is Kudeng rim which also has a root-bridge.
The area is also rich in culture and many villages still practice the joint family system. The houses in the villages are built in a unique village planning system where houses have no fencing between them. The entire village is a thoroughfare. Nongtalang which used to celebrate Rongkhli festival is also rich in culture and tradition, but Lamin village which is a few kilometres away from Jowai- Dawki road is a repository of culture and tradition. Dawki and now Shnong is the leading light or a role model in attracting tourists to the area. One only hopes that the government along with the community will be able to exploit the potential of the area to create livelihood opportunities for the youths of the region.