Thursday, December 12, 2024
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Manas: Call of the wild

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I am from the busy metropolis of Kolkata, a jungle of concrete. My service posting to Guwahati opened up a new world of lush green vegetation inhabited by rhinoceros, elephants, buffalos and tigers. Exotic animals and an exotic new world beckoned me. I was not alone in my experience. My wife shares my wanderlust and together we started visiting different parks, sanctuaries and forests of Assam.
The first in the series was Kaziranga. Assam tourism treated us as royals and introduced us to this wonderful world of the rhinoceros, and we were smitten. It was love at first sight. The jungle and the natives together weaved a magic carpet ride and we felt like Aladdin and Jasmine of the fabled Arabian Nights.
Pobitora is near Guwahati and we don’t miss any opportunity to be there. Next in the series came Nameri with its night in a tent and a trek through the forest.
Last week I had four days’ holiday for Rongali Bihu. It was also Poila Baishak, the Bengali New Year. We decided to celebrate it by making a trip to Manas National Park. While travelling to Kolkata from Guwahati, along with my wife, by road on my bike in the October of 2015, I saw the highway telling me the direction to Manas. Then we couldn’t visit. But the plan to visit was planted in my head and the seed planted then bore fruits during the recent holidays.
I was looking for a place to stay near Manas. I checked Trip Advisor but didn’t get a hotel or lodge to serve my purpose. Either rooms were not available or the rooms proved to be beyond my budget. I wanted a hotel within 20 km radius of the park. I came across a site (hhttp://assamtourism.gov.in/accommodation/lodges.html) of government of Assam listing all the phone numbers and addresses of government tourist lodges in Assam. I called up the number of the lodge near Manas. A lady received the call. She was the tourist officer. She said that she was out of Assam but that she could help me with the booking of a room in the government tourist lodge.
She shared with me the number of Subha Das, the person entrusted with the responsibility of looking after the lodge. The Lodge was in Barpeta Road.
On April 14 we embarked on our journey. We travelled by our Ford Figo (subcompact hatchback). I drove. The car AC helped in fighting the sunrays but didn’t take away the anxiety in our hearts. I have only 6,000 km of driving experience. This highway trip is the furthest I have travelled by driving a car. Guided by Google map we reached the lodge. Das was not present. In his place we were received by Jaiful Islam. He was the cook, and he did justice to his name. The room given to us was huge and sparkling clean. We were relieved. It was Assam type and has a distinct old world charm to it.
We took rest for one hour and then drove to the park to enquire and to make reservations about the next day’s visit. Google map showed a nonexistent road over the railway lines and we got caught in a maze. My navigator as always showed me a way out of the maze of the map and we were on the road to the park. The road was not a road but a collection of gravel, dust and pot holes of all shapes and sizes. We negotiated the pothole riddled 20 kms to the main entrance of the park from Barpeta Road. My small car handled the big task with grace; and we reached the forest range office at 3 pm. There we met Pintu Sarkar. He was the person to be contacted for arranging a safari. A one hour duration elephant ride would cost us Rs 875 per head and a jeep safari for half day will come for Rs 2,000.
We were informed about another road connecting the park to the national park. The tarmac in that road is smooth and shiny and it enters through Bhawanipur. From Bhawanipur through Sorupeta and Salbari to the main entrance of the park is 33 kms of roads.
The forest guard at the main gate told us we can enter the park and drive to Mathanguri located 20 km from the main gate at the Indo-Bhutan border at the bank of the Manas river. For the car we need to pay Rs 300 and Rs 100 more per head. The time allowed was 6 am to 3 pm. We agreed readily. We decided to enter the park next morning and drive to Mathanguri. Just beside the main entrance there is a resort named Bansbari Lodge. A night there would cost you Rs 2,400 for non AC double bedroom. The reception at the resort was tastefully decorated.
We reached the lodge at 6 pm. We were tired. All we wanted to do was to retire for a good night sleep. I met Das and he also told me about a better road through Bhawanipur. I informed him that I would checkout early next morning.
At 5 am I woke up my wife and we got ready by 6 am after having wonderfully invigorating tea. Islam gave us the bills. I paid him and thanked him for the hospitality. Then driving through the sleeping town we hit the highway to Manas. I expected torrential rain but it only drizzled and then the wind blew away the clouds. As we reached the gates of Manas, the sun peeped through the clouds. I paid the fees and we got our entry pass; and we drove into Manas National Park. I felt great because I have experienced a jeep safari, an elephant ride and even a trek on foot but never have I driven into a National Park in a four wheeler.
(To be continued)
(Contributed by Saptarshi
Majumder)
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