By Lopamudra Gogoi Bora
Has it ever occurred to you that the things you have not counted as important have become most precious possessions later? Well, it has happened to me lately when I had an opportunity to visit Tripura, one of the most graceful states in the North East.
As I landed in Agartala airport, I was welcomed with a gust of monsoon wind and while heading towards my hotel in the car, season’s rain followed, soothing the air around and I could not help but thank God for it. I was little sceptical as to what awaited me in my maiden visit to this state. But my qualms were soon rested to peace as a whole new world unbolted ahead of me. The car gently passed by the seemingly pleasant but scanty dwellings towards the city that surprisingly had a very welcoming and warm approach. As we headed towards the city, the atmosphere grew vivid and vibrant with a fresh splash of youthfulness and gracefulness. That moment the traveller within me knew that at a perfect time I was right at the perfect place.
The dreams lay ahead
After freshening up, the temptation of hitting the city to explore its treasures was such that I could not help but move out in spite of being a little haggard. I asked the chauffer where he would take me first and his answer was so prompt as though he had already planned it for me. He then drove me to the grandest attraction of the state that is the Ujjayanta palace, popularly known as the Rajbari. We were still on our way when with a tad of pride he briefed me about this beautiful palace that was built in 1901 and was once the residence of the king of Tripura. But now the palace has been transformed into a state museum that treasures the history, art and culture of the entire North East.
It was almost late afternoon when we entered the premise of the palace and I could not take my eyes off the stupendous architecture as it stood in front of me in all its glory. The garden in the frontyard of the palace magnified the ambience of the entire area. Gradually the evening set in the western sky, radiating a dark saffron mask, casting a magical spell all around. The palace glittered with lights and with it the beauty of Rajbari was enhanced manifold.
This palace is one of the most beautiful and elegant structures of pre-independence architecture that our country has to offer but it has not gained the desired popularity that it truly deserves.
A new morning
I started the next morning with renewed excitement as I was supposed to visit the Neermahal in Melaghar, approximately 50 km from Agartala. Located amidst the grand Rudrasagar lake, Neermahal is nothing less than a paradise unfolding in front of my eyes. The 10-minute boat ride to the palace will be always etched in my heart as the view of this Palace (which was once the summer palace of the King of Tripura).
Neermahal stands out to be one of the two water palaces in India, the other one being the Jal Mahal in Rajasthan. At that moment, I wondered where I was all these years and why I did not consider Agartala in my travel list. The grandness and magnanimity can be best filled when you stand on the terrace of Neermahal and you are sure to get overwhelmed by its sheer beauty all around.
Still occupied and awestruck by the elegance and magnitude of Neermahal, I headed towards ‘Tripureshwari’ temple, the most revered temple of the state. It is one of the 51st Shakti peeths in India and is a widely visited temple by the devotees from all over the state. The huge friendly turtles in the pond on the temple premises are a wonderful sight to behold.
I even had the good fortune of dining with one of the Kokborok families in Agartala (Kokborok is one of the tribes of Tripura) and they made sure my plate was full of local cuisines of which I had never heard of. Tripuri cuisine is an awesome combination of herbs, veggies and of course non-vegetarian dishes which distinctly represent the uniqueness of their food habits and food culture. The bamboo shoot curry prepared without oil was something that just melts in the mouth blasting an array of tastes and flavors. The love, hospitality and simplicity of our host made the entire milieu even more palatable.
History unfolds
at Unakoti
At a distance of approximately five hours from Agartala, there lies the ancient rock sculpture site called Unakoti (in picture) that belongs to the 11th century. Standing there and looking at the stone curving as tall as 30 feet will definitely leave you amazed and startled as to how they were curved out in those days. The entire area is scattered with rock relics and sculptures which speak of the legacy of the richness of Indian art. The sight of huge Shiva faces, Durga, Ganesha and other Gods and Goddesses set against the lush greenery and trickling rivulet is a treat to the eyes. The nearest railway stations to reach Unakoti are Dharmanagar and Kumarghat having well connectivity from Agartala. Carrying some packed lunch would be advisable if you are visiting Unakoti as there are no proper restaurants nearby.
Memories never leave you behind
Ever since I left Agartala, the memories have been a part of me like a shadow. The royal aura that this city has is unmatched and unrivalled. This is a destination that will completely fill a traveller’s inquisitive and ever wandering soul. So if you have not yet planned your next trip, it is time you pack your bags to Tripura. The best time to travel to Agartala is from October to March. Agartala is well connected with flights from Delhi, Kolkata, Mumbai and Guwahati and have good railway connectivity.
(The author is a Mumbai-based travel blogger and costume stylist)