A village where English resides, but does not dominate…
By Abha Anindita
SHILLONG, Jan 8: Nestled amidst clouds, Nongjrong has recently gained attention, being dubbed as the ‘English-speaking village,’ diverging from its established identity as the enchanting host to a mesmerizing sunrise veiled in clouds. However, labeling the village as English-speaking would be misleading, as a stroll through the village reveals a different narrative.
In the Khasi and Jaintia Hills, English serves as a second language for much of the population, a reflection that is evident in Nongjrong. Yet, the number of truly English-speaking residents in this village of around 1500 is likely limited to single digits.
The youngest daughter of Bibi Shelda, who manages one of the oldest shops around the Nongjrong viewpoint, chuckled and questioned back when asked if Nongjrong is rightfully called ‘The English-speaking village nestled above clouds,’ saying, “You went around the village; you tell me, what do you think?”
Going around the village, one could feel that the residents understood bits and pieces of the foreign language; to generalize it into an English-speaking village would be close to a hoax. Banita Myrboh, one of the contributors to keeping the sunrise viewpoint clean, conversed through Misonwell Rangtong, the man behind the exquisite sunrise pictures from Nongjrong, that were primarily one of the reasons behind the village’s popularity.
As soon as she heard her name being asked, her eyes lit up, and she said, “My name is Banita,” grinning from eye to eye, her teeth stained with Kwai, as she liked to call it, her natural lipstick.
Contrary to reports circulating earlier by a digital platform calling Nongjrong the English-speaking village of India, the villagers had a different story to tell.
The village is definitely nestled above the clouds, and one can find the pristine, almost transparent river, Wah Umngot, flowing below the village, serving as a major source of water. The headline was indeed click-baitish and not true, said Misonwell.
“I tried reporting it while also screenshot of it in my Whatsapp story, stating it is not true, but the damage is done, I guess,” he said, also adding that maybe that would serve as motivation for the villagers to learn the language, be friendly with tourists, and help guide them through our beautiful village, showing them better.
The locals, otherwise shy and secluded in their worlds, are now opening up to the thousands of tourists who flock to the village peaking from October to February to see a sunrise atop a hill, neatly tucked away in clouds, standing true to the name of the village, ‘Nongjrong,’ which can literally be translated to a village on a height.
Rangtong, a graduate of St. Edmunds, Shillong, admitted to learning English only after moving to the city. He stated that it took him sometime to pick up the language and now manages the viewpoint and guides tourists along with his partner, Pamela Ryntong.
Pamela, donned in a traditional ‘tapmohklieh’, shared that locals are picking up essential English keywords for easier communication but emphasized that calling Nongjrong an English-speaking village is premature.
Myrboh is one of the many responsible for keeping the viewpoint spick and span. Of course, also responsible for her family of nine, she could only smile and say that before tourists flocked to the village, it was like one of the many villages to exist. But now, suddenly, there’s light shining upon the village, showing them doors to a whole new world where only darkness prevailed once upon a time.
Shelda, the owner of the shop, who runs the shop with her four daughters, could speak bits and pieces of English, had a UPI scanner placed in the shop, and shared a similar opinion, stating that one visible change the village has seen is the mindset of the people.
“They were in their own world, comfortable in their spaces, and maybe they would be annoyed if you clicked their picture. But now, as you go around, they will happily wave at you. Even with their limited knowledge of the language that is foreign to them, they would try to help you out,” she added.
Previously immersed in their own world, the villagers have become more welcoming, waving at tourists and attempting to help despite language barriers.
The village, home to 350 families, has embraced outsiders with open arms, marking a significant transformation from its earlier reluctance.
The once-isolated community has transitioned from darkness to a newfound openness, symbolising a positive change in mindset and opportunities for a village that now shines in the light of tourism.
The villagers have now set up home stays, shops that serve them as an additional employment generation opportunity, for a village that is dependent completely on agriculture.
One has to go through a few bumps just before reaching the village that is home to 350 families, but how an entire village, that once was not privy to the idea of outsiders coming in, is wholeheartedly welcoming sightseers every morning, is nothing short of a phenomenon.