By Aafaque Hussain
“Gar firdaus, bar rue zamin ast, hamin asto, hamin asto, hamin asto” which translates to “If there is ever a heaven on earth, it’s here, it’s here, it’s here” are the famous words of mystic and a spiritual disciple of Nizamuddin Auliya of Delhi,Amir Khusrau about Kashmir, a valley that continues to mesmerise people for its snowy hills, freezing temperatures and the warm hospitality of people.
Sunday Shillong recently explored this heaven which was in the news for wrong reasons but now this exacting region is limping back to normalcy from its hostile past and Kashmiris are keen to make the turn around for the region through the Tourism sector.
Soon after taking off from New Delhi Airport, the beauty of Kashmir makes an appearance before the window shades of the flight and the crystal clear views of Himalayas with snow capped mountains gives goosebumps to any nature lover.
As the flight starts its descent at Srinagar, the journey to Kashmir gets even more exciting as one literally flies over these mighty Himalayas and the beauty of these massive hills only seems to magnify as one gets closer to Kashmir.
Once upon a time, the picturesque region was riddled with bloodshed, guns, destruction and warfare, but as of today, the situation in the sensitive region looks much more promising with people eyeing economic benefits from the tourism sector. An eye-opening experience making a lesson in point for Meghalaya’s tourism potential.
The valley has a very similar geography like Meghalaya and both the states though different in sizes and culture continue to impress tourists with their beauty despite connectivity issues in both the landlocked states of Meghalaya and Jammu & Kashmir.
However, Kashmir enjoys a well connected aerial and road connectivity as their roads are well connected with mainland towns and their international airport has flights to all over India unlike Meghalaya which is surviving on one a couple of National Highways and limited flights.
However, Kashmir is now set to get a major boost in connectivity with the completion of the Udhampur-Srinagar-Baramulla Rail Link project.
The Indian Railways has achieved the monumental feat of linking Kashmir to Kanyakumari showcasing India’s engineering prowess and dedication and it is only a matter of time when Kashmir will be connected with railways whereas in Meghalaya, people have outright rejected railways.
While the majority of Kashmiris seem ecstatic about the idea of connecting the valley with the rest of the country, people are also apprehensive about some local issues which may crop up with the introduction of railways.
Interaction with some locals in the tourism sector gave an insight to understand the challenges, hopes of a Kashmiri in this fast evolving world where tourism is slowly turning into a major industry in many sensitive states and regions.
Nisar Ahmed, a tourist cab driver from Anantnag said they wholeheartedly welcome railways as it would bring great economic benefits to the local people.
He, however,was also concerned that railways in the valley may increase the crime rate as a lot of people from outside would come and try to settle in the area.
Referring to the quote of Amir Khusrau that if there is a heaven, it is Kashmir, he said that the coldest days in Kashmir are witnessed during the 40-day Chillai Kalan, a period when winter is harshest there. The Chillai Kalan is a 40-day stretch of intense cold that begins on December 21.This unforgiving period, lasts until January 31 when the temperature dips to 
minus 9 degrees. The name, derived from Persian, aptly translates to “Major Cold,” signifying the peak of the region’s winter hardships, characterised by biting cold, heavy snowfall, and freezing night temperatures. He says that in spite of such harsh weather conditions, people from across the country and the world visit the place as the place literally transforms into a heavenly place with dense snow cover.
Apart from the urban agglomeration of Srinagar, One of the most sought after and iconic places in Kashmir is Gulmarg. Gulmarg which means “Meadow of flowers” is located 60 kms away from Srinagar which is an hour and half journey by car. Gulmarg has attracted millions of tourists throughout its existence with the scenic beauty of the Himalayan Mountains in the backdrop.
One of the main attractions in Gulmarg is the Gulmarg Gondola, the highest cable car in the world. The 1st phase of the Gondola takes tourists to the height of 8530 ft to Kongdori Station and the second stage of the Gondola goes up to the height of 12293 ft.
Tourists were also seen enjoying horse riding and to the magnificent “Strawberry Valley”, Leopards Valley and riding up to “Kongdori” to see the frozen lake of “Al- Pathar”.
Gulmarg in winter is a magnificent experience, fully covered in a white blanket of snow which turns it into a skiers paradise. The natural slopes here are untouched and prove to be a challenge to ace skiers
As one drives to Gulmarg, one would get the glimpse of huge Himalayan mountains reminding visitors about the breathtaking natural landscape of the place and as one continues its drive towards Gulmarg, the wonderland showcases its real colours as snow lying on both sides of the road and the hills make the drive even more memorable and satisfying.
After reaching Gulmarg, one can see the entire place covered with snow be it the road, pavements and the scenic view of Himalayas covered with white snow will surely make one feel that they are in a paradise. One can also experience some frozen streams passing through the place.
However, like every other thriving tourist spot, there are also some negative aspects of the place as well. As one approaches the entry point of Gulmarg, people have to disembark from their cabs, scores of local scouts and agents, who thrive on guided tours for business, vehicle drivers, pony owners and people offering other services hound tourists.
As the place is thronged by thousands during winter, the prices of these activities also increase by many folds too. Activities such as basic skiing within a small area, making of professional reels, food items would surely burn a hole in the pockets of many.
Some locals say that people from Srinagar city itself come to Gulmarg every day for their business and hence things are slightly expensive here like every other tourist location.
Before reaching Gulmarg, every tourist cab driver stops at a place where tourists have to rent a pair of gumboots and a coat for a price of Rs 400. Even if one does not wish to buy, the shopkeepers insist on visitors to purchase these items as a protective layer against the cold.
We met one Abdur Rashid, a physically disabled father of three, selling Kashmiri Kahwa (tea) in Gulmarg. He says that the economy of Gulmarg is thriving on tourism and he wishes that the situation remains fine in Kashmir so that more and more people from across the globe visit their place.
He advises the local inhabitants of any place that wishes to excel in tourism to have courtesy and warm hospitality for their guests.
“It is our duty to make the experience of our guests pleasurable and relaxing so that they would spread a positive narrative about our place, which will in turn enthuse others to come here ,” he said.
As he was selling Kashmiri kahwa and Kashmiri kulcha, he shared his pain and explained how he and his family are surviving only because of the earnings which he makes from the tourists who visit Gulmarg.
After all the turmoil that the valley has seen in the last few decades, the people of Kashmir are now hoping for a brighter future with fortunes ahead especially with the situation improving in the valley and the tourism sector as hope with immense potential.
Another must visit place in Kashmir is Dal Lake. The lake is located right in the heart of Srinagar city.
Dal Lake is the most visited place in Srinagar by tourists and locals and it is integral to tourism and recreation in the Kashmir valley and is famously known as the “Lake of Flowers”, “Jewel in the crown of Kashmir”or “Srinagar’s Jewel”. The shore line of the lake, about 15.5 kilometres, is encompassed by a boulevard lined with Mughal era gardens, parks, houseboats and hotels.
On this lake, a ride on the shikara (Kashmiri boat resembling a gondola) is a must as people can enjoy the real beauty of Kashmir while sipping a cup of Kashmiri Kahwa. While people can enjoy the serenity of the lake, they can also experience the life of Kashmir as local vendors and also approach the Shikara to sell their goods – be it flowers, vegetables and local eatables.
Mohammad Manzoor, a shikara operator in Dal Lake says that the political and security situation has greatly reformed in the valley and now all they want is more tourists.
“Every day, around 3000-4000 tourists come here and by God’s blessings, the situation has gotten better and now we hope that more people will come here,” he said while adding that hospitality is the most important aspect of making your tourism industry a flourishing market for the benefit of the local people.
While everything appeared normal, calm and serene in the city, the administration continues to remain vigil as there is deployment of defence personnel in the entire city, as they guard different pockets of the city to ensure peace in the city and the region.
Given how sensitive the place is due to its history, even at the Airport, security scanning is done twice for every passenger. One scanning of the passenger and his belongings is done by the defence personnel before the entry at the airport, another usual frisking is done inside the Airport by the CSIF personnel.
However, in spite of the challenges, be it geographical, political or local, the natives of Kashmir are optimistic for a brighter future in years to come due to the dedication and commitment of the local people to protect their culture and identity and thrive on their potentials to Kashmir to greater heights of prosperity and development. The Kashmiri tourism model may serve as a learning point for us too, as we’re building and promoting Meghalaya’s natural spots, food, traditions and cultural fabric for the world to behold.