By Abha Anindita
SHILLONG, Jan 11: A silent crisis does unfold beyond the ever-smiling faces of the now-famous Nongjrong residents, as the community of 350 families continue to grapple with significant civic issues, foremost among them being a severe water crisis.
The village reeks of spirit and vibrancy but a look deeper behind their rosy smiles and hospitable gestures, all’s indeed not well within the awe-inspiring community. Despite gaining fame for its attractions, such as the Brah viewpoint and the last hanging oranges of the season, Nongjrong struggles to meet the basic water needs of its residents, thereby limiting its capacity to host tourists.
The village, which did not have any homestay until last January, now has five of them, but the water scarcity limits their hosting capacities, told Iahun, the owner of Sunrise Homestay, located just beside the viewpoint.
The residents are grateful for the ‘influx’ contradicting the negative connotation attached with the word, however, conversations with them, revolved around how their lives would get better once the water scarcity is worked out.
Ironically, Wah Umngot flows just below the village, and one can overlook it from the viewpoint in the absence of the fog.
As the inrush of visitors brings both opportunities and challenges, locals like Banita Myrboh, who are thankful that the light shines on Nongjrong in the form of sightseers, started venting as soon as she sensed empathy in hopes of redressal to the grievances, that is not limited to her family, but the entire village, about water.
Sighing about how her family of 9 has to make-do with just 3-4 buckets of water, daily, she said, “It is worse during winters, even the minimal use is limited. We need at least 10 buckets daily, and buying water is expensive, and that is not everybody here can afford.”
The same sentiment was shared by Dari Mukhim, a portable shop owner, and Bibi Shelda, owner of one of the oldest shops around the view point.
Misonwell Rangtong, a youth leader in charge of the locally called ‘Brah viewpoint,’ shared with The Shillong Times that despite being connected to the Jal Jeevan Mission (JJM), water resources are limited, leading to long lines and a daily allowance of 2-3 buckets for each household with 4-5 members.
To watch the alluring sunrise, tourists flock to Nongjrong, the village atop a hillock, as early as 3:30 to 4 in the morning, particularly in peak winters.
The village got popular during the lockdown, and once the restrictions eased, to witness a sunrise of a lifetime surrounded by the rising fog, and daily, as many as 400-1000 sightseers flock in.
On being asked if the early morning train of sightseers disturbs the locals, Rangtong said that the locals were already accustomed to waking up early due to water issues, fetching water from down the valley before heading to their farms, as the entire village depends on agriculture, cultivating rice, maize, potatoes, tomatoes, ginger, and oranges.
Despite facing severe water crises, locals maintain a positive outlook, especially during winter when tourist numbers peak.
In the process of accepting tourists, the village is still learning to make a living from it.
Homestay owners primarily earn from agriculture, and the homestay income is seasonal, it significantly contributes to their households.
Beyond the mesmerising views, Nongjrong also stands out for its communal spirit, resembling a large family where residents contribute to weddings and funerals alike. Villagers attending weddings prioritise responsibilities over dressing up, helping with decoration, food, and more.
Initially facing issues with toilets and parking space, villagers collectively resolved the problem by offering personal washrooms and parking spaces to sightseers, charging only a nominal amount. The village, initially plagued by a garbage problem, now creatively uses biodegradable waste as manure for crops and burns plastic waste far from the village.
The orange orchards, a visual delight, yield fruit until early April, attracting sellers due to the growing popularity of Khasi mandarins. Noteworthy are the hanging oranges, gleaming and tasting like the forbidden fruit but accessible without burning a hole in the pockets.
The valley below the village boasts almost 100 orange orchards, with the last fruit of the season available until the first week of April. With Khasi mandarin gaining nationwide traction, the village produces around 4 to 5 metric tonnes of the fruit, attracting sellers for the oranges.
The village continues to bask in the spotlight of its scenic allure and growing tourism, but continues to grapple with water issues. Notwithstanding adversity, the villagers continue to maintain a positive outlook while they continue striving for a harmonious existence with nature and visitors alike.